Basilica di San Clemente al Laterano (Basilica of Saint Clement), Rome (must see)

San Clemente is a most impressive archaeological site in Rome, renowned for its unique triple-decker structure. At its pinnacle sits the present-day basilica, erected in the 12th century. Below it lies a 4th-century church, built upon the remnants of a 2nd-century pagan temple dedicated to the god Mithras and ancient Roman apartments dating back to the 1st century. In 1857, Friar Joseph Mullooly initiated excavations beneath the basilica, unveiling these fascinating layers of history. Today, visitors can descend through time and explore all three levels, immersing themselves in the rich heritage preserved within.

The upper church, located at street level, exudes charm and splendor. Its apse features a radiant 12th-century mosaic depicting Jesus on the cross, transforming into a vibrant tree. Delicate green acanthus leaves dance across the mosaic, adorned with intricate scenes of daily life. The 4th-century marble choir screens showcase early Christian symbols, including doves, vines, and fish. Within the left nave, the Castiglioni chapel reveals frescoes created around 1400 by the Florentine artist Masolino da Panicale, renowned for his contributions to realism and perspective in Renaissance painting. Notable frescoes within the chapel depict the Crucifixion, scenes from the lives of Saints Catherine, Ambrose, and Christopher, and the Annunciation above the entrance.

Descending the stairs to the right of the sacristy and bookshop, visitors are transported to the 4th-century church, which remained in use until 1084 when it suffered irreparable damage during a siege led by Norman prince Robert Guiscard. Despite the passage of time, vibrant 11th-century frescoes depicting stories from the life of Saint Clement have endured. Of particular interest is the final fresco on the left, once part of the central nave. It showcases a captivating quote, including the unexpected phrase "Go on, you sons of harlots, pull!"—a rare and intriguing inclusion in a religious painting and an early example of written vernacular Italian.

Descending further down a set of stairs unveils the Mithraeum, a sacred shrine dedicated to the god Mithras. The cult of Mithras originated in Persia and gained popularity in Rome during the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. These underground chambers served as a place of worship, mirroring the belief that Mithras was born in a cave. Stone couches, visible within the Mithraeum, served as seats for initiates who would gather to share meals. It is worth noting that many pagan shrines in Rome were dismantled by Christians, who often repurposed the sites by constructing churches atop them.

Why You Should Visit:
A very interesting glimpse into the ancient past – below street level!

Tip:
Bring a small flashlight for a closer inspection of the frescoes and wall paintings.