Choijin Lama Museum, Ulaanbaatar (must see)

The Choijin Lama Temple and Museum, located in the heart of Ulaanbaatar, is a striking historical and cultural landmark. Originally built between 1904 and 1908, the temple served as the residence of Luvsan Haidav Choijin Lama, a revered state oracle and the brother of the Bogd Khan. This richly decorated temple complex was repurposed in 1942 as a museum to preserve the traditional religious and cultural artifacts of Mongolia, following its closure in 1938 amidst a period of political and religious upheaval.

The temple grounds are home to five distinct temples, each showcasing different aspects of Buddhist art and culture. As visitors enter, the first temple encountered is the Maharaja Süm, which houses impressive statues of Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha), Choijin Lama, and Baltung Choimba, who is entombed within a statue. This temple is renowned for its exquisite thangka paintings and its collection of traditional tsam masks, which are used in ancient ritual dances.

Beyond the Maharaja Süm, the complex includes Zuu Süm, dedicated to Sakyamuni, and Yadam Süm, which features wooden and bronze statues of various deities, many of which were sculpted by the renowned Mongolian artist Zanabazar. Another highlight is Amgalan Süm, which displays a self-portrait of Zanabazar and a small stupa reportedly brought from Tibet by the artist himself. The Gongkhang, or protector chapel, is notable for housing the oracle’s throne and a striking statue of yab-yum, representing the mystical union of male and female deities.

Although no longer an active place of worship since the reintroduction of religious freedom in 1990, the Choijin Lama Temple and Museum continues to serve as a vital cultural repository, offering insight into Mongolia’s rich spiritual heritage and historical traditions.