Chouara Tannery, Fes (must see)

The largest tannery in Fes and arguably the most striking sight in the Medina, Chouara exudes a compulsive fascination for visitors. Each morning, the site buzzes with activity as cascades of water flow through openings that were once windows of nearby houses. Hundreds of skins are spread out on the rooftops to dry, while amidst the vats of dye and pigeon dung, an almost surreal scene unfolds as tanners treat the hides. The sight is like something out of a Gothic fantasy, with the rotation of colors in the honeycombed vats following a traditional sequence—yellow (from turmeric), red (from poppy), blue (from indigo), green (from mint), and black (from antimony).

Despite the occasional modern addition like rinsing machines, little seems to have changed here since the 16th century when Fes supplanted Cordoba as the premier city of leather production. The ownership structure remains intricately feudal, with foremen overseeing hereditary guilds and workers passing down their specific jobs from one generation to the next.

While there is a sensuous beauty to the tannery's operations, there's also a certain element of guilt in indulging in the spectacle, especially as one observes the gallery of camera-touting foreigners capturing the scene.

Tip:
To view the tannery up close, visitors typically ascend into the leather shops overlooking the site, often paying a small fee to the guardians (who may provide a sprig of mint to help combat the strong odor).