Geser Sum Monastery, Ulaanbaatar

Geser Sum Monastery, also known as West Geser Sum, stands as a remarkable testament to Mongolia’s diverse cultural and religious heritage. Constructed between 1919 and 1920 by Guve Zakhar, a practitioner of the Blue religion (Chinese Taoist Buddhism), this monastery occupies a central location in Ulaanbaatar, nestled on the south side of the hill with Dasgan Ovoo. Established during the Manchu era, the monastery was funded by Chinese merchants, resulting in a unique architectural fusion that blends Mongolian Buddhism with elements of Chinese Buddhism and Taoism.

The design of Geser Sum reflects a distinct stylistic Chinese influence, yet it incorporates Mongolian Buddhist elements and indigenous shamanistic motifs. This eclectic blend highlights the monastery’s role as a crossroads of various religious and cultural traditions. Notably, Geser Sum remains one of the few monasteries in Ulaanbaatar that has not been overshadowed by urban development, preserving its historical and cultural significance amidst the city’s rapid modernization.

Following its closure in 1933 when the government repurposed it for the Border Army Song and Dance Ensemble, Geser Sum avoided the widespread destruction of Buddhist sites during the communist era. After the end of communist rule in 1990, the monastery resumed its function as a Buddhist temple. However, the site has suffered from neglect, theft, and the pressures of nearby development, affecting its condition.

In recent years, efforts have been made to restore Geser Sum through a collaboration between the post-communist government and the Buddhist community. The ongoing initiative aims to preserve Geser Sum as a vital part of Mongolia’s spiritual and historical landscape.