Great Theater and Quadroporticus, Pompei (must see)

In contrast to the nearby Odeon, this venue was known as the Large Theater. It was built in the 2nd century BC, in the style of ancient Greek amphitheaters. Set in a natural indentation of the land, it features tiered stone seating on sloping sides, leading to a central horseshoe-shaped performance area.

The theater reached its peak under the reign of Augustus Caesar, being refurbished and extended by the Holconius brothers, rich wine growers from the region, who fitted the rows of seating with marble tops. Following the earthquake of 62 AD, however, the theater was damaged and the marble was removed. Simultaneously, the stage was rebuilt and a grand façade added, complete with columns and statues.

The Holconius brothers also added an upper circle and two side boxes for guests of honor. The Large Theater could hold up to 5,000 spectators within segregated seating areas. The eldest Holconius brother had his own reserved seat here, inscribed with bronze lettering. Back then, the theater was covered by a large canopy, protecting the audience from the sun. The opposite side of the amphitheater housed dressing rooms and access to the outer courtyard.

The Quadriporticus, a large four-sided courtyard, is flanked by colonnaded buildings, typical for most Roman dwellings. While there is some uncertainty over its function, it is known that portions of the complex were used as barracks for the town’s gladiators. The courtyard itself was used for their exercises, being ideally located next to the theater where gladiatorial games were held regularly. It is depicted in the ancient painting, now housed in Naples’ National Archaeological Museum, featuring a swimming pool in the center. The pool might have been covered after the site was damaged in the earthquake of 62 AD.

Graffiti carved by the gladiators in the columns of the Quadriporticus hint at public opposition to, and even condemnation of the violent games. A large quantity of gladiatorial armor found at the site, including helmets, belts and shoulder protectors, all marked with the letters NER, suggest that the gladiators came from the Neroniam, Nero’s imperial school, in nearby Capua.