La Venencia, Madrid

Clad in vintage posters and bearing the marks of cigarette stains, La Venencia sherry bar in the heart of Madrid gained its reputation during the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s, as a popular hangout of Republican soldiers and their supporters, among whom was Ernest Hemingway, who, as a war correspondent, sought news from the front and often frequented the establishment.

Nowadays, the sherry and tapas joint has managed to preserve much of its character. Although smoking has been banned, as in many public places, the old wooden barrels and sawdust floor are still in place, and they remember Hemingway used to pitch up for a glass of sherry, much as the top-shelf bottles, none of which seems to have been dusted since. All of this adds a great deal to the place's appeal.

Regularly crowded by locals, the bar still carries a sign from the Civil War era, saying "Don't spit on the floor". Moreover, in keeping with its Republican tradition, La Venencia still observes the strict rule, as was in Hemingway's time: no photography, as a precaution against potential Fascist spies, and no tipping. The latter may seem peculiar, but these old customers were, after all, socialists...

Tip:
If you make the effort to fit in, you'll be fine. Don't expect advice on sherry choice; service is efficient but not effusive. They don't do flights or tastings, but a glass is so cheap (and good) that it doesn't matter. Show respect to the staff and be friendly, and you'll receive a nod of acknowledgement as you depart, indicating that you were welcomed.