Le Pigeon (The Pigeon) / La Chaloupe d'Or (The Golden Boat), Brussels

The Pigeon—one of the many fancy guild houses overlooking Brussels’ star-studded main square— might not be the flashiest of the bunch. It's got no gold-drenched unicorns or ships for balconies, but it’s got charm. And brains. And a bit of literary spice.

Originally the clubhouse for the city’s painters, the building took its name from a modest little sign featuring—you guessed it—a pigeon. But don’t let the bird fool you. This place once hosted none other than Victor Hugo himself. Yes, that very same Victor Hugo who wrote Les Misérables and probably made a lot of French teenagers cry in literature class.

In 1852, while exiled from France for not exactly being besties with Napoleon III, Hugo moved in upstairs here. From that very perch, he admired the Grand Square and called it “the most beautiful square in the world.” Honestly, hard to disagree—especially with that kind of view and no rent to pay.

But Hugo wasn’t just swooning over Baroque rooftops. Between gazing lovingly at the architecture, he found time to absolutely roast Belgian politics—calling the monarchy a “farce” and the government “absurd.” All this while sipping coffee and writing from a room above a bird sign. Exile’s never looked so cozy...

Today, you can’t go inside The Pigeon—it’s not a museum—but you can ogle its elegant Baroque façade, sculpted details, and glittering touches, all rebuilt after the French bombed Brussels in 1695. (Awkward, considering Hugo’s later residence.)

Standing outside, keep your eyes peeled for the sculpted pigeon perched above the door—an architectural Easter egg if there ever was one—and a plaque honoring Hugo’s poetic crash pad.

Now glide on over to The Golden Boat—which, despite the name, is more baroque than buoyant. Once the headquarters of the tailors’ guild, this post-bombardment rebuild from 1697 was stitched back together and topped with Saint Homobonus, the patron saint of tailors, looking very pleased with the real estate.

And the best part? You can pop in for a beer and a bite downstairs—because this golden ship now sails as a Belgian café-restaurant. Saintly skyline, savory snacks. It's like eating history, with extra sauce...

Tip:
Swing by after dark. The whole square lights up like a scene from a romantic period drama, and these two are worth a lingering look as a gilded footnote in a very stylish chapter of European history.