Machado de Castro National Museum, Coimbra (must see)

When Coimbra was Aeminium it was a city of the Roman empire. Like other cities, it had a forum. The Aeminium forum was supported by a cryptoporticus, a semi-underground gallery with vaulted ceilings and arches to support above ground structures. Most of Aeminium is gone, replaced by Coimbra. The forum and the cryptoporticus remain.

Supported by the cryptoporticus, the forum, in turn, supports the Bishop's Palace. The Bishop's palace dates from the middle ages. Today it is the home of the Machado de Castro National Museum. Joaquim Machado de Castro (1731-1822) was one of Portugal's greatest sculptors. He presided over his own school and he was Master to many artists.

The museum opened in 1913. The majority of the museum's permanent collection consists of items of a religious nature from areas surrounding Coimbra.

The museum has the most extensive collection of sculptures among Portuguese museums. The exhibits of paintings, ceramics, precious metals and textiles are especially fine.

The museum occupies three floors above the old forum. It has a pleasant cafe with a terrace for outdoor seating. The terrace overlooks terrific views of the city. The time spent in the museum is never enough.