Marche des Lices (Lices Market), Rennes (must see)

"Lices" corresponds to the English word "Lists." The lists were barriers that separated contending knights at tournaments. Here, in 1337, at the age of 17, the future Constable of France, Bertrand du Guesclin, unhorsed a dozen knights. In 1622, Bertrand's field of honor became a market. The market opens for business on Saturdays.

By 1658, the Lices Market had become a large square. Wealthy status-proud Parlement members built private mansions by the square. The half-timbered and stone mansions are imposing. The hotel de la Noue and the Racapé-de-La-Feuillée building are timbered. The hotel de Montbourcher and the hotel du Molant, home of Le Carre restaurant, are of stone.

In the 19th century, Les Halles Martenot (The Martenot Halls) were built in the Square. The Halls are named for their architect, Jean-Baptiste Martenot. They were inspired by the Baltard Halls in Paris. The two Halls are made of bricks and steel, covering an area of 1,300 square meters. Besides the market, the Halls also host salon events and exhibitions.

It is 7:30 am on a Saturday. It is Market Day in Rennes. It seems everyone in the city has come early to shop. Giant ermines, the totem animals of Brittany, peer out from windows around the Lices Market at the doings on the square. The ermines are stationed behind the windows during renovations. They are attentive to the food.

The ermines and the shoppers are curious about the seasonal fruits and vegetables, fresh fish and seafood, and all other edibles produced in Brittany. It is a huge display. Chefs and restauranteurs come to replenish their supplies. Musicians set themselves up between the stalls. Food trucks and vans are busy.

There are lines for galette saucisse, a Breton pork sausage wrapped in a buckwheat crepe. Ciders, bread honey, beers, it's all here. Bar terraces line the square. Visit Delirium Cafe, Pavilion, La Grappe, the pub Webb Ellis, and the oyster bar at l'Abri Market. The people shop and feast. The ermines watch and wonder.