Museu Arqueologico do Carmo (Carmo Archaeological Museum), Lisbon (must see)

Located in Lisbon's Chiado neighborhood, overlooking Rossio Square, the Convent of Our Lady of Mount Carmel is both a historical landmark and a cultural treasure, as well as a lasting reminder of the devastation caused by the 1755 earthquake. Founded in 1389, the convent housed Carmelite friars up to 1423. It flourished in the 16th century, with 70 clergy residing within its walls.

The 1755 earthquake destroyed the convent’s library of 5,000 volumes and caused severe structural damage, leaving its Gothic church in ruins. Following minor repairs undertaken in the 19th century, the building saw various uses, including as police quarters, a sawmill, and later a military station. In 1834, the site transitioned to secular use after religious orders were expelled from Portugal.

In 1864, the Association of Portuguese Archaeologists took ownership, transforming the ruined convent into a museum. Efforts to restore the site continued into the 20th century, with significant work undertaken in 1902 and the 1950s. However, the structure sustained further damage in the 1969 earthquake. Five years later, the convent played a key role in Portugal's Carnation Revolution, serving as a stronghold for the Estado Novo regime before its surrender to pro-democracy forces.

Architecturally, the Carmo Convent showcases Gothic design. Its church, featuring a Latin cross layout, includes a partially destroyed rose window and surviving pointed arches. The stone roof collapsed during the 1755 earthquake and was never rebuilt, giving the church its unique open-air appearance.

Today, the convent is home to the Carmo Archaeological Museum, displaying artifacts spanning Portuguese history. The museum houses Gothic tombs, Roman and Visigoth objects, and Moorish painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework. The former apse chapels have been repurposed as exhibition spaces, with one of them displaying remarkable pre-historic relics excavated from an ancient fortification dating from 3500 to 1500 BC.

The entrance fee is reasonable, and there is much to explore, including a well-executed multimedia presentation recounting the site's history. You'll need about 80-90 minutes to get a comprehensive look, though you might want to save some extra time for the surrounding terraces, offering splendid vistas of the Castle of the Moors.

Tip:
If you're looking for a way to get back down the hill into the city, your best bet is to take the Santa Justa Lift. Located just to the right of the convent, it is accessible via a footbridge through the Bellalisa Restaurant.