Panteao Nacional (National Pantheon), Lisbon

The soaring white dome of Saint Engratia sets it apart as the tallest church in Lisbon. Originally a 17th-century church in the city's Alfama neighborhood, it now serves as the National Pantheon of Portugal, housing the tombs of notable Portuguese figures.

The church traces its origin back to around 1568, initiated by Infanta Maria of Portugal, daughter of King Manuel I. She established the first church dedicated to Saint Engratia, a martyr from Braga (a town in the northwest of Portugal). However, it wasn't until 1681 that construction of the current structure began, following the collapse of earlier buildings. João Antunes, a leading baroque architect and the royal architect of the time, took charge of the new design.

Construction progressed until 1712, the year of Antunes's death. Thereafter, interest in the project waned, particularly under King John V, who redirected his attention and resources to the Convent of Mafra. As a result, the church's completion dragged into the 20th century, giving rise to the colloquial phrase "the works of Saint Engratia" to describe a never-ending project. It was finally completed and re-inaugurated in 1966 with the addition of a dome.

Architecturally, Saint Engratia is a marvel with a centralized Greek cross floorplan, a feature innovative in Portuguese architecture. The design includes square towers at each corner and undulating façades reminiscent of Borromini’s baroque style. The main façade is adorned with a grand baroque portal flanked by angels holding the Portuguese coat-of-arms. The interior is marked by curved spaces, with floors and walls bedecked with polychromed marble patterns, and an impressive baroque organ from the 18th century, originally from Lisbon Cathedral. On different levels, you'll find small wooden balconies affording excellent views of the grand hall below.

In 1916, during the First Portuguese Republic, it transitioned into the National Pantheon. This final transformation was completed in 1966, under the then dictatorial prime minister António de Oliveira Salazar's regime. Contrary to speculations, Salazar was not entombed here; he chose to be buried in his hometown. The Pantheon now includes the remains of Presidents Manuel de Arriaga and Óscar Carmona, writers like Almeida Garrett, and iconic figures such as Portuguese fado singer Amália Rodrigues and the legendary footballer Eusébio. It is also a fitting location for the cenotaph of explorer Vasco da Gama, given the presence of ships from around the world mooring on the quayside below.

Tip:
Visitors can access the rooftop terrace, offering panoramic 360-degree views of Lisbon and the harbor, without any significant wait; the entry fee is quite low. If you happen to visit on a Saturday, you'll have the added delight of exploring a flea market!