Piazza Santo Stefano (St. Stephen's Square), Bologna

Via Santo Stefano exudes the same charm as the Main Street ("Strada Maggiore"), with late Gothic palaces once favored by Bolognese silk merchants. As you stroll, occasional upward glances reveal 12th-century tower-houses integrated into late-medieval residences, now embellished with Renaissance facades. The cobblestone Saint Stephen's Square (although more triangular than square), particularly vibrant during antiques markets or gourmet food fairs, provides an intimate setting for Saint Stephen's (Santo Stefano) complex, the city's most revered site. Exploring this ecclesiastical labyrinth, with its array of ancient and medieval churches, requires ample time. Originally a complex of seven churches, akin to Jerusalem's architecture, it is known as Le Sette Chiese ("the Seven Churches"), though only four remain.

Dating back to at least the 5th century, the complex may have been established by Bishop Petronius as his cathedral atop a former pagan temple site; by the 10th century, however, it evolved into a Benedictine sanctuary. Santo Stefano is still overseen by stern Benedictines, one of whom reveals: "Dante often came here to meditate in 1287, but we are inclusive - even local prostitutes come here for confession at Easter."

The interconnected churches and courtyards, including the Benedictine cloisters, create a harmonious ensemble. From the picturesque square, the larger church on the right is the Church of the Crucifix ("Chiesa del Crocifisso"), the central one is the Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre ("San Sepolcro"), modeled after Jerusalem's Holy Sepulchre, and on the left stands Santi Vitale e Agricola, Bologna's oldest church.