South Gate of Angkor Thom, Siem Reap

The South Gate of Angkor Thom stands as the most renowned city gate and serves as an emblematic representation of the grandeur of this ancient city. A must-see for every visitor to Angkor, the South Gate lies along the main road connecting Angkor Wat to another popular destination, the Bayon temple.

The causeway leading to the South Gate is a sight to behold, characterized by its exquisite stone causeway that spans the expansive 100-meter-wide moat of Angkor Thom. The railing on either side of the causeway is adorned with world-famous rows of giant sculptures, each holding a Naga, a multi-headed serpent, on their knees. These sculptures were once present at each of Angkor Thom's five city gates, but today, only the South Gate retains an almost complete set.

The eastern railing is adorned with 54 ferocious-looking Ashura demons, easily recognizable by their grimacing expressions. While some of the original heads have been moved to museums, the missing ones have been replaced with cement replicas, albeit of a brighter color. On the other side, the row of 54 Devas (gods) appears less well-preserved, with more heads missing. Both rows of sculptures are connected by a serpent-like rope held in their hands, creating a three-dimensional representation of the famous "Churning of the Milk Ocean" myth.

The "Churning of the Milk Ocean" is a revered narrative from Vishnu mythology, where Vishnu appeared as the turtle Kurma to assist in producing the elixir of immortality, the Amrita, for the gods. The story tells of the Devas and Ashuras, who united their forces to churn the Sea of Milk jointly, using Mount Mandara as the pivot, represented by the Bayon temple. The churning process led to the creation of various celestial treasures, including Apsaras (celestial dancers), the goddess Lakshmi, and the three-headed elephant Airavata, culminating in the discovery of the Amrita elixir.

The South Gate of Angkor Thom is not only a historical treasure but also a breathtaking representation of the region's myths and legends. Its impressive architecture and intricate sculptures captivate visitors, transporting them back in time to the ancient world of Angkor. The morning is recommended for a visit, as the faces of the demons are illuminated from the side, creating a unique play of light and shadow.