A Foodie’s Guide to Tallinn Restaurants, Tallinn, Estonia (B)

I didn’t have many expectations of Tallinn – capital of Estonia, the northernmost Baltic country on the border with Russia. And yet this quiet, compact, clean and efficient city enchanted me. Its walled, cobbled Old Town is much like many others throughout Europe, but the relative lack of tourists make it far more enjoyable to explore. The Kalamaja neighbourhood to the north is a combination of traditional wooden workers’ homes, hipster street art and modern docklands. While surrounding the centre and to the east in Kadriorg Park, there’s so much green that Tallinn is also paradise for dogs and their owners.

The Estonians are no strangers to spice and citrus, smoke and salt. Big game, like elk and mousse, feature on lots of menus, as do smoked fish and pickled anchovies.

Estonian food was also unexpected: despite having had several Tallinn restaurants recommended to me, I hadn’t anticipated how big the flavours would be. The Estonians are no strangers to spice and citrus, smoke and salt. Big game, like elk and mousse, feature on lots of menus, as do smoked fish and pickled anchovies. Bread is dark and malty with rye, and served with salted butter. Vegetables are fresh and in season, which during our stay meant plenty of beetroot and summer leafy greens. The craft beer scene also seems to be hopping (pun very much intended) and there’s so much to interest wine lovers that I’ve created an entirely separate guide to wine bars in Tallinn. In short, this Medieval-meets-modern city has much to recommend it. ...... (follow the instructions below for accessing the rest of this article).