Ban Jelacic Square is named for Josip Jelacic, Ban (ruler) of Croatia and leader of Croatian independence from Austria in the 19th century. The name, locally, is Jelacic Plac. It is in the center of Zagreb's downtown pedestrian zone. It is located below the early medieval settlements of Gradec (1242) and Kaptol (1094), south of Dolac Market.

In 1641 it became necessary to create a new marketplace outside the old nucleus of Gradec and Kaptol, near the spring of Mandusevec. Initially called Mandusevec, the square's name was later changed to Harmica. The square became Ban Jelacic Plac in 1848.

A statue of Josip Jelacic on his horse, created by Austrian sculptor Anton Dominik Fernkorn, was erected by the Austrian administration. In 1947 it was removed by the Communist authorities, who renamed the place "Republic Square."

When the World University Games were held in Zagreb in 1987, the city was renovated and revitalized. The square was repaved in stone blocks and pedestrianized. The Mandusevec Fountain and the Mandusevec Spring, buried in 1898, were uncovered. In 1990 the Communists era ended, and Josip Jelacic, on his trusty steed, returned to the square.

At Christmas time, Ban Jelacic Square is adorned with trees and lights illuminate the facades of the surrounding antique Classicist, Secessionist, and Modernist buildings.

In 1093, king and warrior-saint Ladislaus I of Hungary moved the seat of a bishop from Sisak to Zagreb. He declared the church in Zagreb to be a cathedral. Reconstruction began at once and continued after the death of Ladislaus in 1095. The Zagreb Cathedral was consecrated by King Andrew II of Hungary in 1217.

The building was destroyed by Mongol invaders in 1242 and rebuilt shortly thereafter. The continuing threat of the Ottoman Empire prompted the structure of walls and a watchtower. The cathedral was rebuilt again after the earthquake of 1880. It was restored in its present Neo-Gothic form by Franco-German architect Hermann Bolle.

Dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the building, looming over the city, is the tallest in Croatia. On the main facade, the tympanum between the bell towers depicts the Virgin and Child and two angels. On both sides of the entry are statues of saints Methodius, George, Barbara, Catherine, Florian, and Cyril.

Above the doorway, the statue of Christ is flanked by the sainted kings Stephen and Ladislaus. Inside, the high altar portrays the Holy Family. Light from stained glass windows illuminate the tomb of the martyred Cardinal Aloysius Stepinac. There is a relief inside the cathedral by sculptor Ivan Mestrovic of the Cardinal with Christ.

Gornji Grad–Medveščak (Upper Town–Medveščak ), one of Zagreb districts, is known as "Upper Town" for its elevated position above the "Lower Town" or Donji Grad. Centrally located, it had a population of 30,962 across an area of 10.19 square kilometers.

This district is notable for its many historical landmarks and tourist spots. It includes Gradec and Kaptol, two medieval areas that now make up the Upper Town. Key sites in Upper Town include the city's Cathedral, Saint Mark's Church, and the Croatian Parliament, alongside Tkalčićeva, a popular café-lined pedestrian street. The district also houses significant sites like the Mirogoj cemetery, established in 1876, located further north.

The main road in the district runs from south to north, starting as Ribnjak street near Ribnjak park, becoming wider and renamed as Medveščak street, and later becoming Ksaver in the north. This road is a key tram route for the district, with lines 8 and 14 serving Medveščak. Other important tram lines run along Ilica, Jurišićeva, and Vlaška streets in the southern part. The historic Zagreb funicular connects the Lower and Upper towns, and there are also bus routes, though less frequent, through the hillier, sparsely populated northern areas.

Why You Should Visit:
Gornji Grad is the oldest part of Zagreb, a must-see for anyone visiting the city. There is a lot to see and do here so take your time to explore the area.

Tkalciceva Street was once the course of Medvescak Creek, creating the border between the twin settlements of Gradec and Kaptol. Since the earliest days of the city, the Medvescak had supported water mills along its length. The mills were the basis of Zagreb's industry, producing cloth, paper, soap, liquor, and leather.

Competition among the mills triggered feuds between Kaptol and Gradec. A treaty of 1392 limited the construction of new mills on the shared border. That left only two mills within the city, both owned by the Cistercian Monastery. The creek was covered over, and the mills were demolished in 1898. The result was the creation of a street named Creek Street.

In 1913, Creek Street (Ulica Potok) was renamed Tkalciceva Street in honor of historian and priest Ivan Tkalcic, who had died in 1905. Most of the houses on Tkalciceva Street date from the 18th or 19th century. The creek now serves as part of the Zagreb sewer system, but it had been a source of power to the Medvescak Fountain.

The street runs parallel to and in between Upper Town (Gornji Grad) and New Village (Nova Ves). It reaches Ban Jelacic Square to Little Street (Mala Ulica). Initially, it had been paved with gravel taken from the Sala River. In the 20th century, it was resurfaced with asphalt. Small businesses replaced the mills, and the leather industry closed shop in 1938.

Tkalciceva Street was a "red light" district in the early 20th century. Prostitution was legal, and the street was a popular tourist attraction. Every other house was a brothel. The most high-toned house was the Kod Zelene Lampe (Green Lantern). The sex business went the way of the mills and the leather shops with the coming of WW II.

In 1242 Gradec, now Zagreb, was declared a free royal city with the right to self-government. As this might make the city a target, it had to be surrounded by walls with access only through fortified gates. These days the only gate left standing is the Stone Gate (Kamenita Vrata), believed to have been built in 1266.

The Stone Gate is a rectangular one-story entrance tower in the wall of the town. The difference being there is, at present, no wall. Loopholes on the northern and western facades are from the 16th century. There is a tunnel access through the center of the building at ground level for vehicular passage.

In 1731, the fire destroyed most of Zagreb. At the time, a shrine in the Stone Gate held a painting of the Virgin with the baby Jesus. It had not been touched by the fire. This may or not have been a "miracle," but every day, someone comes to the shrine, lights a candle, and utters a prayer to the Mother of God.

Another item in the Stone Gate is a small figure of Dora Krupiceva, a character from the 1871 novel, "The Goldsmith's Gold" by Zagreb author August Senoa. Dora is holding the keys to the city.

It is claimed by some that Saint Mark's Church in Saint Mark's Square is the oldest architectural monument in Zagreb. The evidence says maybe so or maybe not. The distinctly Romanesque window on the south facade strongly suggests the 13th century. Saint Mary's Chapel has a semicircular ground plan that indicates the same.

Here's the spoiler. In the 14th century, the church was rebuilt. It became a plain, three-nave Gothic church, ergo, not so old. The ribbed vaults are supported by stout columns. The intricately sculpted south portal has 15 figures of the Holy Family, Saint Mark, and the Apostles in niches. It is the richest Gothic portal in Central Europe.

The roof tiles, laid in 1880 by architects Friedrich von Schmidt and Herman Bolle, bear the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Triune Kingdom of Croatia. Inside are sculptures by artists Ivan Mestrovic, Jozo Kljakovic, and Ljubo Babic. There are renovated frescoes and a gilded 22-carat gold leaf ceiling.

Saint Mark's Church is in the center of Saint Mark's Square. Surrounding the square are the Banski Dvori (Ban's Court) seat of the government of Croatia, the Parliament, and the Constitutional Court of Croatia. The Old City Hall, on the corner of the square and Ciril and Metod Streets, is where the City Council meets.

The Saint Mark's Square was renovated in 2006. The ban on demonstrations in the square was lifted a bit in 2012. Until 2020 it was the site of the inaugurations of Croatian presidents. In 2020 Zoran Milanovic took his oath in the Presidential Palace.

The 2020 shooting, or the Saint Mark's Square attack, was the work of Danijel Bezuk, a 22-year-old, self-styled right wing sniper. Bezuk attacked a police officer at the Constitutional Court using an AK-74 automatic rifle. Police in the square returned fire. Bezuk fled to Jabukovak Street, where he took his own life.

Saint Mark's Square was still closed off as of 2023. Its closure has had a negative economic impact on the neighborhood. There is hope for better days.

The Croatian National Theatre is a cultural institution in Zagreb that encompasses theater, opera, and ballet performances. Its origins can be traced back to 1834 when the first city theater was established in what is now the Old City Hall. However, it officially became the Croatian National Theatre in 1860 and received government support in 1861, elevating it to the status of other prominent European national theaters. In 1870, an opera company was integrated into the theater, and in 1895, it relocated to its present location on Republic of Croatia Square in Zagreb's Lower Town.

Emperor Franz Joseph I of the Austro-Hungarian Empire attended the inauguration of this new building during his visit to the city in 1895. This architectural masterpiece was designed by renowned Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Herman Helmer, who had previously created several theaters in Vienna. The theater's entrance is adorned with a wall fountain called "The Source of Life" (Zdenac života), which was designed by Croatian artist and sculptor Ivan Meštrović in 1905.

Throughout its history, the theater has been home to numerous prominent Croatian artists. Its initial manager and dramatist was the Greek-Croatian poet Dimitrija Demeter, a key figure in the Croatian national revival movement, with Ivan Zajc serving as the first conductor. Notable figures like Branko Gavella, the renowned Croatian theater director, and Mia Čorak Slavenska, the first Croatian prima ballerina, began their careers at this institution.

Over the years, the theater has welcomed numerous international artists, including Franz Liszt, Sarah Bernhardt, Franz Lehár, Richard Strauss, Gérard Philipe, Vivien Leigh, Laurence Olivier, Jean-Louis Barrault, Peter Brook, Mario Del Monaco, and José Carreras.

Why You Should Visit:
It is a gorgeous building in a park-like setting, surrounded by other beautiful buildings. If you are lucky, you may catch a performance and get a chance to see its equally gorgeous interiors, too.