Avignon Introduction Walking Tour (Self Guided), Avignon

Pope Benedict XIII felt nervous. The year was 1404 and already his palatial residence in Avignon had been attacked once. He was afraid his palace would be besieged again. "They'll be back." Neighboring houses pressed against the Papal chateau on every side. He had to clear a defensive zone around the palace. What to do?

No problem. He pulled down all the houses around him and made a few of the ancient streets disappear. The result was an open area sloping downward from the palace where enemies would be exposed to defensive fire and missiles, a "glacis." The wreckage of the razed houses remained in place until 1603.

By 1618 the houses were cleared and the space was graced by a grove of mulberry trees. The trees lined an avenue leading to the palace. The square was already the largest square in Avignon.

The Palace Square was not only good for defense, it proved to be very handy for executions as well. Heads rolled during the Old Regime. They rolled even faster from the guillotine during the Terror of the Revolution.

The Square is bounded by distinguished buildings and monuments. Among these are: the Bank of France; the Currency Hotel; Petit Palais Museum; Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral and of course the Palace of the Popes.

Under the square is a parking garage. In the square itself one may catch a small train to tour the area.

The Palace of the Popes has got to be one of the largest, if not the largest, medieval Gothic structures in Europe. It served well as a fortress, palace, and papal residence throughout the 14th century, during the Catholic schism and the "Babylonian Captivity" of the Papacy. Six papal conclaves and seven Popes were maintained in the palace.

The palace is actually two buildings joined together. There is the old palace of Benedict II, firmly ensconced on the rock of the Doms, and the new palace of Clement VI. Clement was known to be the biggest spendthrift of the Popes of Avignon. The palace is probably the best example of International Gothic style.

The designs were made by Pierre Person and Jean de Louvres, two of France's best architects of the time. The ornamentation is beyond lavish and produced by two students from the Siena School, Simone Martini and Matteo Giovanetti. The papal library housed in the palace held over 2,000 volumes. It was a big draw for scholars and humanists.

The palace was huge enough to affect the organization of the church of the time. Services were centralized and the size of the administrative staff exploded. The number of people employed including lay people exceeded 1500 by 1316. In spite of this, the Avignon papacy and administration became irrelevant when operations returned to Rome.

Today the palace is a historical and architectural landmark. It has over 650,000 visitors a year, making it one of the top ten such attractions in France. It houses a convention center and a research center and serves as a library for the archives of the department of Vaucluse.

The place has over 160,000 square feet of floor space. It has twelve strong crenelated towers and walls and arches designed to withstand heavy siege bombardment. The study of Clement VI has celebrated frescoes showing deer hunting scenes. It is popularly known as the "Deer Room." Clement was not known for hunting.

The Palace regularly hosts art exhibitions. The works of Matisse, Braque, Picasso, and Mondrian have been shown there and also single exhibitions of Miguel Barcelo and Stefan Szczesny.

Why You Should Visit:
If you miss the palace you miss the heart and history of Avignon.

Nestling with the Palace of the Popes on the Palace Square is the seat of the Archbishop of Avignon, Avignon Cathedral, or the Cathedrale Notre-Dame des Doms. Even next to the Palace, the most imposing Gothic building in europe, the great church holds its own.

After being closed for refurbishing for two years, the Cathedral, locally known as La Metropole, reopened in 2016. It has been a rebirth. The once dark, grimy interior is clean and filled with light. Sculptures, paintings and other treasures are now in plain view.

It is believed the Cathedral is not the first church to occupy this spot. It is thought a basilica preceded it only to be destroyed by Saracen raiders in 731.

Cathedrale Notre-Dame des Doms was built and consecrated in 1111. There are different theories about the origin of the name of the church. It might be derived from domus episcopal, meaning "Bishop's house", or Rocher des Doms after the enormous rock that rears above the cathedral.

The style might be an architectural stew of mostly provencal Romanesque, mixed with Greek, Roman, Gothic and Baroque elements. Some inner chapels were added in the 14th century, during the time of John XXII, second Pope of Avignon. The donated bells are a 35-strong carillon.

The cathedral has a great octagonal dome, and a marble papal throne from the 12th century. In the chapel of John XXII, there is collection of reliquaries and vestments.

Service are held each morning.

The Little Palace Museum (Musée du Petit Palais), located in Avignon, is a remarkable museum and art gallery that opened its doors in 1976. Housed in a 14th-century building at the north side of the square dominated by the imposing Palace of the Popes (Palais des Papes), the museum showcases an exceptional collection of early Renaissance paintings and "primitives" from Italy, alongside works from the Avignon school. Much of the Italian collection originates from the famed Giampietro Campana collection, previously housed at the Louvre, while the Avignon pieces were deposited by the Calvet Museum. The Little Palace Museum was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Little Palace built between 1318 and 1320 for bishops under Cardinal Berengar Fredol the Elder, has a history linked to the Avignon Papacy. Purchased by Cardinal Arnaud de Via in 1323, it became the episcopal palace under Pope Benedict XII in 1335. In the late 15th century, Bishops Alain de Coëtivy and Giuliano della Rovere (later Pope Julius II) restored the palace, adding Italian Renaissance-style facades.

Over the centuries, the building's role evolved significantly. Initially a fortified citadel during the Western Schism, it fell into disrepair by the early 15th century. Restoration in the late 15th century shaped much of its current form, but it was again affected by nationalization during the French Revolution. In the 19th century, it became a Catholic secondary school, and later a technical school after the 1904 church-state separation. Declared a historic monument in 1910, it underwent major restoration starting in 1961 under architect Jean Sonnier.

Step into the world of Renaissance brilliance at the Little Palace Museum, where you'll encounter masterpieces by Botticelli and Vittore Carpaccio. The museum also boasts an impressive array of sculpted capitals from Avignon’s churches and an assortment of religious artworks, including altar screens. Botticelli's Madonna with Child is the highlight of the collection.

An oasis above the overheated crowds in the palace of the Popes Square, on the top of Doms Rock, are the shady gardens of Doms Rock Gardens.

There are great views of the Rhone River and all of the Rhone plain. From the overlook platform, one can see the Saint Benezet Bridge and Fort Saint-Andre.

The park is a green space of 95,000 square feet. There is a large carp pond with resident geese. In the center of the pond is a stage of Venus with swans. Venus is nude. She had to be moved from another park in 1894. There is a cafe by the pond. One can have a drink and watch Venus with her swans.

Doms Rock Gardens is an island of limestone standing 100 feet above the Rhone plain. It became a fortified oppidum and a citadel for the Roman settlement. The citadel was eventually replaced by a chateau and in the 14th century, the Palace of the Popes appeared.

Doms Rock Gardens can be reached via stairway from Avignon Cathedral or by way of Saint Anne's steps. However, there is also a small train that will carry one to the garden gates.

The song goes... "On the bridge of Avignon
Everyone is dancing
On the bridge of Avignon
Everyone dances in a ring"

But, actually they danced below the bridge, not on it. Over the years, they worked their way up, the handsome men, the lovely women, the soldiers, the babies, the good friends, the musicians...so the song says, around and around. What does it mean?

The song and the bridge are wrapped in mystery. The bridge referred to in the song, Le Pont d'Avignon is actually Pont Saint Benezet. Saint Benezet (1165-1184) was an illiterate shepherd who became the patron saint of bridge builders, and this is how he did it.

In 1177 he told the bishop he had had a vision wherein he was told to build a stone bridge across the Rhone. The bridge was to be at a point where the force of the river was greatest. The bishop, not wanting to defy Heaven, approved the project and work began. Benezet's holy mission was confirmed by no less than 18 miracles of healing.

The stone bridge that replaced Benezet's damaged bridge in 1234 had 22 arches and 21 piers and was 980 yards long. The arches were low and were liable to collapse when the river ran too high. Only one chapel, Saint Nicholas Chapel, and four arches remain of the bridge. The bridge was listed as a Historical Monument in 1840.

Place Pierre-Vauboin is more well known as Clock Square. The buildings around the square form the shape of a half-moon. The half-moon shape was for military defensive reasons. The crescent minimized the chance of ambush.

At its center is the monumental clock which gives the square its name. The clock was started by the then mayor of Lyon, Edouard Herriot in April 1908. The square is possibly the busiest in Avignon. Cafes and restaurants are frequently overflowing. Street artists emerge with their easels around the square.

Patisseries and boulangeries crowd against each other. Cobble stone streets and alleys lead off the Place to Gothic churches, synagogues, bistros, galleries and night clubs.

The Roman forum of Avenio was located where the Clock Square is today. During the 12th and 13th centuries it was known as the Square of the Butchers. This was the place where butchers set up shop on market days. It was partially occupied by the convent of Saint-Laurent, the oldest convent in the city.

At various times work was initiated to expand the Square. Finally in the 18th century the square was enlarged on all sides. The renovations favored symmetrical facades. During the Terror of the Revolution, the guillotine was installed for a few months before being moved to the Palace Square.

The memories here are bittersweet. Today it is one more pleasant place to be.

The Town Hall of Avignon (Hôtel de Ville) is a significant landmark that has stood in the heart of the city since the 14th century. Originally serving a different civic function, the building's tower operated as a belfry before it was transformed into a town hall in the 19th century. This transformation was guided by designs from Joseph-Auguste Joffry, who enhanced the building’s façade with elegant Corinthian columns, a balcony, and a peristyle, reflecting a Classical architectural style.

Situated in the Clock Square (Place de l’Horloge), the main square of Avignon, the Town Hall not only adds to the grandeur of the square but also separates the clock tower from the plaza itself. Its impressive exterior, adorned with flags of the city and France, is a sight to behold, especially when illuminated in the evening. Visitors can appreciate the building's somber yet grand ambiance as they stroll around, admiring the striking façade and its classical elements.

Inside, the Town Hall houses various administrative offices crucial to the city's operations. Entry is restricted to guided tours due to tight security, but those who do gain access can explore its upper rooms, featuring beautifully painted ceilings, and the ground floor, which honors fallen French soldiers with memorials.

Adjacent to the Opera Theatre d'Avignon, the Town Hall is surrounded by numerous attractions, shops, and cafes, making it a lively area for visitors to explore. The nearby mechanized clock tower, which chimes the hours, adds a unique historical touch to the bustling square, making the Town Hall not just an administrative hub but also a vibrant part of Avignon’s cultural and social scene.

Republic Street (Rue de la République) in Avignon is a prominent 390-meter street in the heart of the city, running from the Clock Square (Place de l'Horloge), which hosts the Town Hall (Hôtel de Ville) and the Opéra Grand Avignon, to Cours Jean Jaurès, where you'll find the Tourist Office, the Square Agricol Perdiguier, and the Administrative City.

Originally named Cours Bonaparte in honor of Napoleon Bonaparte, who approved the project, the street underwent several name changes before settling on Republic Street in 1870. Its creation was envisioned as early as the 1680s by Pierre II Mignard, who proposed a direct route from the Clock Square to the Saint-Michel Gate. However, it wasn't until the 19th century, with the advent of the new railway station connecting Avignon to Paris in 1853, that the plan gained momentum.

The street's construction took place in three phases between 1856 and 1867, led by Paul Pamard's municipality. The first phase (1856-1857) extended from the railway station to Joseph-Vernet Street, elevated to prevent flooding. The second phase (1859-1863) stretched to the Chapel of the Lycée. The final phase, completed in 1867, connected the chapel to Clock Square.

Walking along Republic Street from Gate of the Republic (Porte de la République) to Clock Square, you'll encounter a variety of historic sites, including the former Hautpoul barracks, now an administrative complex, the Agricol Perdiguier square, once the site of the Saint-Martial cloister, the Jesuit College chapel now housing the Lapidary Museum, a fountain topped with a bronze statue of Paul Pamard, and a square featuring a bust of Frédéric Mistral.

In the very center of town, near the Aubanel printing museum, on the cobbled Saint Pierre Square, is Saint Peter's Basilica. Built in 1385 with a donation of the Cardinal Pierre de Pres. The Basilica is immediately behind the Palace of the Popes. Among all the fascinating buildings in the city, Saint peter's is a real stand-out.

Here is a perfect example of flamboyant Provencal Gothic architecture. There are six side chapels added in the 15th and 16th centuries. The building's foundation dates back to the seventh century. An Octagonal bell tower surmounts the church. The original renaissance walnut doors are 13 feet high with carvings by Antoine Volard.

The interior of the basilica does not disappoint. It has a multitude of painted vaults, gilded balconies for the choir, renaissance paintings, and a stone altar with an altar piece by Umberto Boccioni. The original vestments and hat of Cardinal de Pres hang in a glass covered cabinet on the wall. They carry their age very well.

The basilica is an operating church. There is no fee to enter, but visits should be avoided during services and private ceremonies. Organ concerts are held often. There is generally an atmosphere of serenity and calm within.

Avignon Market Halls (Les Halles d'Avignon) located on Pie Square (Place Pie) in the heart of Avignon, is a vibrant marketplace that has become synonymous with the city's gastronomic culture. This covered market, also known as Central Halls (Halles Centrales), hosts around fifty traders offering a diverse range of high quality products including bread, cheese, fruits, vegetables, poultry, pastries, delicatessen items, shellfish, flowers, and both organic and exotic goods. Renowned authors like Peter Mayle and Jean Viard have celebrated the market, solidifying its reputation as a culinary hotspot.

A unique feature of Market Halls is the impressive 600 square meters green wall on the north façade, designed by botanist Patrick Blanc, which adds to the market's distinct allure and serves as a significant city attraction.

The origins of Market Halls trace back to the 16th century when the land, once owned by a man executed as a heretic, was designated for a covered market. Though construction was slow, the market hall was eventually completed in 1624, featuring not just shops but also a guardhouse and a chapel. Over the centuries, the market evolved, with major redevelopment projects taking place in the 19th and 20th centuries. Notably, the first iron market hall was installed in 1864, and a major construction project commenced in 1898, resulting in the current halls being inaugurated in 1899.

Throughout its history, Market Halls has undergone numerous changes, including a roof redesign in the 1920s and various structural modernizations in the mid-20th century, adapting to the shifting commercial landscape with the advent of supermarkets and the subsequent need for downtown revitalization.

Today, Avignon Market Halls is not just a market but a lively community hub where, every Saturday since 2006, chefs and artisans from Greater Avignon engage with visitors through live cooking demonstrations using fresh ingredients from the market. This tradition not only highlights the rich culinary heritage of Avignon but also offers a hands-on experience for food enthusiasts looking to learn and share in the artistry of local cuisine.

Down by the River Sorgue there is a canal, the Vaucluse channel. The channel leads water from the river through the city walls to the street of the Dyers of Avignon. From the 14th to the 19th century this street was a very busy place. There was intense textile manufacturing activity.

Twenty-three water wheels provided the power to wash, rinse and dye silk and other fabrics. The street gained the sobriquet "Street of the Wheels." Today there are only four wheels left and they are not operating.

On the the eastern end of the street of the Dyers there is the very strange Maison du IV de Chiffre ("House of digit four"). It is one Avignon's oldest remaining buildings made in the Gothic style. Built in 1493, it is noted for its crenelated cornice with two watchtowers and drainpipes in the shape of gargoyles.

The figure "IV" is carved into the facade between the ground floor windows. It has a heart impaled with a dart and the crosses of Saint Andrew and Lorraine. The meaning is a mystery although it is used on seals, playing cards and musical instruments. The building houses local associations and is sometimes used as a theatre.

On the same side of the street is Number 14, the house of Jean-Henri Fabre. Fabre was a naturalist whose work on insects inspired Darwin. At number 8 is the Chapel of the Grey Penitents. On the doorway is a painting of two hooded figures praying. The penitents were sincere. Nothing ominous is meant by the hooded robes.

The Grey Penitents were founded by King Louis VIII, who came to pray after the siege of Avignon. Number 8 is only open for religious services. Inside there is a 17th century paneled ceiling, a chapel in a hexagonal chamber and paintings by Pierre Parrocel and Nicolas Mignard.

Each year in November the members of the Grey order celebrate the parting of the Waters. These are not of the Red Sea, but of the ever rambunctious Rhone. On the 30th of November, 1433, the Rhone burst its banks but the waters parted in the nave of the church so the holy sacrament could stay high and dry.

Where the street crosses the rue des Lices, one comes upon the Convent of the Cordeliers, a 13th century Franciscan convent. Only a bell tower and a chapel are left. Laura de Noves, the unrequited love and muse of the poet Francesco Petrarch is supposed to be buried here.

Why You Should Visit:
One may discover the secret of the house of IV or even the sting place of Laura Noves.

Tips:
Take enough time to follow the entire street, if possible. There's a lot here.