Jewish Quarter Walking Tour (Self Guided), Amsterdam

Waterloo Square near the Amstel River in Amsterdam was named after the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Prominent buildings here include the Stopera complex (home to the city hall of Amsterdam and the Dutch National Opera and Ballet) as well as the Moses and Aaron Church.

Waterloo Square was created in 1882 when the local Leper's and Wood canals were filled in. The square became a marketplace when the city government decided that the Jewish merchants from the nearby areas had to move their stalls here. Thus, in 1893, the square became a daily market (operational all week long, except on Saturdays, the Jewish sabbath).

During World War II, the Jewish quarter was emptied of its residents as the Nazis rounded them up and sent them to concentration camps. The Waterloo Square market had disappeared by 1941.

After the war, the deserted Jewish quarter's Waterloo Square market transformed into a bustling flea market. Popular among tourists and locals, it was revived to offer a rustic bazaar atmosphere, providing a space to shop, haggle, and browse a diverse selection of goods.

The market has some 300 stalls and is open every day except Sunday. Given the wide variety of merchandise on offer, it is not meant for rushed browsing. Making quick decisions can be challenging, so be sure to allocate generous time for your visit.

Tip:
If you're inclined towards saving money, take a preliminary tour of the market before making any purchases. Many items, such as hats and sunglasses, can be found at multiple stalls, with prices varying from one vendor to another.

This old house in Amsterdam's Jews Broadway, with an ornate facade adorned with intricate wooden shutters and an elaborate pediment, was once the home and studio of the Dutch painter Rembrandt van Rijn. Commonly known as Rembrandt, he was a prominent 17th-century figure, rightfully acclaimed as one of the foremost artists of the Dutch Golden Age—a period when the Dutch Empire enjoyed the zenith of its power and renown.

Originally built in 1606, the property served as the artist's residence during the pinnacle of his fame, a place where he resided for nearly two decades, from 1639 to 1658, and created some of his most iconic masterpieces, such as "The Night Watch."

However, the lavish expenditure on furnishings ultimately contributed to Rembrandt's financial downfall. After his bankruptcy, the house changed hands and underwent various renovations before it was purchased by Amsterdam's municipality, in 1907, and then restored and converted into a museum by 1911. The building was redesigned in the 20th century based on the inventory drawn up during Rembrandt's bankruptcy.

The museum shows Rembrandt's living and working quarters, giving the visitor an idea of the artist's daily life. Stepping inside here feels akin to entering one of Rembrandt's own paintings, with quintessential Dutch interiors featuring black-and-white tiled floors and traditional box beds. Two particularly captivating highlights include a nearly complete collection of Rembrandt's etchings, exhibited in its modern wing and etching cabinet. In Rembrandt's old house, there are also works of art by his teacher, Pieter Lastman, and his pupils, Ferdinand Bol and Govert Flinck. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions throughout the year of the works by Rembrandt's contemporaries and (contemporary) followers.

In 2019, research confirmed that two pots found in Rembrandt’s old cesspool were used by him for mixing quartz soil, a unique canvas preparation method. These pots are now on display here.

Tip:
Reserve some time to browse the museum's quaint shop, offering a selection of delightful, high-quality souvenirs at reasonable prices. It is highly likely that you will want to get something as a keepsake for yourself too.

While the thoroughfare of Sint Antoniesbreestraat may have felt the relentless pressures of the developers' advances, the resplendent Pinto House stands as a testament to endurance, metamorphosed into a vibrant bastion of communal culture. Distinguished by its off-white Italianate façade, this edifice bears the name of Isaac de Pinto, a Sephardic Jew who, evading the clutches of the Inquisition, embarked on a transformative journey to become a founding figure of the Dutch East India Company.

In the annals of 1651, de Pinto inscribed his legacy by procuring this estate at the extravagant cost of 30,000 guilders, embarking upon an opulent reformation. The outcome was a stately manor characterized by a striking exterior, accentuated by the commanding presence of six towering pilasters, purposefully designed to guide one's gaze skyward toward the ornately embellished balustrade.

De Pinto's residence, a showcase of architectural grandeur, became a subject of fervent discourse, elevated even further when the interior received the artistic caress that mirrored the exterior's majesty. Venture inside and be transported to a realm of opulence, where the original painted ceiling, adorned with avian and cherubic motifs, serves as an awe-inspiring centerpiece. Moreover, a Louis XIV-style fireplace stands sentinel, a paragon of refined craftsmanship, transcending time and kindling an appreciation for a bygone epoch.

Prior to the cataclysmic outbreak of World War II, a substantial portion of Amsterdam's Jewish population was engaged in the intricate craft of diamond cutting and polishing, a historical facet of the city's heritage. While the diamond industry has somewhat receded from prominence today, one remarkable exception endures in the form of the Gassan Diamonds factory, which occupies a grand and substantial brick edifice dating back to 1879.

Guided tours of this establishment offer a fascinating glimpse into the world of diamond craftsmanship, encompassing visits to the cutting and polishing ateliers, as well as a leisurely exploration of the diamond jewelry showroom, where one may contemplate and, if inclined, acquire a resplendently brilliant yet diminutive keepsake.

Essentially, your visit commences with the issuance of a sticker, ushering you into a 15-minute tour that unveils the artistry of a diamond polisher at work, accompanied by an informative overview of the diamond refinement process. Subsequently, you are afforded the opportunity to convene for an in-depth discussion elucidating the nuances of color and clarity, supplemented by visual aids comprising diamonds ranging from the modestly priced to the truly opulent, with values spanning from €100 to €50,000. To add to the allure, the premises boast an expansive souvenir emporium, replete with an extensive assortment of coveted blue and white delftware.

The Uilenburger synagogue, an architectural gem in the Louis XV-style (rococo), was originally established in 1766 to host Jewish religious services and faithfully served this purpose for nearly two centuries. It stands as one of the few remaining original structures on the former Uilenburg island. After the Second World War, this historic building underwent diverse uses but has now been entrusted to the Uilenburgersjoel Foundation by the Municipality of Amsterdam.

Established in 2002, the Uilenburgersjoel Foundation was formed with the goal of restoring the synagogue to its Jewish roots and transforming it into a vibrant hub for social and cultural activities involving various Jewish organizations. The vision for the Uilenburgersjoel is to become a center for a wide range of cultural and social activities, including concerts, exhibitions, presentations, Jewish worship, educational programs, and other events aimed at enhancing the well-being of the Jewish community in all its facets.

Furthermore, the facility is well-suited for a range of social and cultural activities catering not only to the general population of Amsterdam but also to the local Uilenburg community. Space within the synagogue will be made available for both regular and occasional users, ensuring its accessibility and utility for a wide array of purposes.

Cleverly shoehorned within a remarkable complex featuring four Ashkenazic synagogues dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, this museum stands as the principal institution in the Jewish Cultural Quarter. It distinguishes itself by placing less emphasis on the Holocaust and instead, delves deeply into all facets of Jewish life and the intricate relationship between the Jewish community and the city of Amsterdam. This museum is truly one of a kind, not only within the country but quite possibly in the entire world, housing an extraordinary collection of rare documents, artifacts, and manuscripts thoughtfully presented within their historical context.

Known as "Mokum" in Hebrew, Amsterdam served as a refuge for Jewish communities for an extended period, welcoming both the Sephardic Jews from the Iberian peninsula and the Ashkenazi Jews from Central and Eastern Europe. Despite sharing the same ethnicity, these two communities existed within distinct economic strata, contributing to the diverse tapestry of Dutch society.

What truly captivates visitors to this museum is its meticulous curation. It offers clear explanations regarding the differences between various Jewish diasporas and how the coexistence of these two groups influenced Dutch society. Additionally, the museum features a faithful reconstruction of a synagogue, providing insights into the beauty of Jewish worship and its integration into daily life. There are also exhibits focusing on the contributions of Jewish individuals to various industries, contrasting their experiences with the impoverished segments of the city's history. In essence, the museum offers a comprehensive experience, complete with a kosher eatery and an excellent bookshop. Moreover, a combined ticket allows access to other notable Jewish sites, including the exquisite Portuguese Synagogue, the evolving Holocaust Museum, and the engaging Children's Museum.

Tip:
If you plan your visit for a Saturday or Sunday, you'll have the opportunity to explore a bustling market in the adjacent square, adding an extra dimension to your weekend excursion.

Positioned prominently on a small square just outside the Portuguese Synagogue, the Dockworker statue, crafted by Dutch sculptor Mari Andriessen, pays tribute to the laborers of Amsterdam, not limited to dockworkers alone. This poignant monument commemorates the courageous actions of the city's workers during February 1941, when they staged a strike in protest of the Nazi treatment of Amsterdam's Jewish population. The catalyst for this historic strike was a series of arrests and violent pogroms instigated by the Germans in the old Jewish quarter of Amsterdam, in retaliation for the injury of several Dutch police officers during a street skirmish.

Regarded as the first public protest against the Nazi regime in occupied Europe, this subsequent strike was orchestrated by the outlawed Communist Party and led by the city's transportation employees and dockworkers. It endured for a remarkable two days, drawing a staggering 300,000 participants to the streets on February 26. On the third day, the German occupiers brutally suppressed the strike, but its memory lives on through an annual observance on February 25. This somber event includes the laying of wreaths and a procession past the Dockworker statue. Notably, representatives from all political parties, along with the city's public transportation authorities and organizations representing Holocaust survivors, partake in this solemn commemoration.

The prospect of enjoying religious freedom is what attracted a significant number of Jews from across Europe to Amsterdam. Over the years, the city has earned a reputation for its tolerance and its commitment to equal rights for individuals of all backgrounds.

The Jewish community first sought refuge in Amsterdam in the late 15th century, escaping persecution in Spain and Portugal to find a haven of religious liberty in the Netherlands. During this period, the Dutch Republic was engaged in a conflict with Spain, prompting the refugees to adopt the moniker "Portuguese Jews" to avoid further complications.

The community thrived, and approximately a century later, in 1665, the majestic Portuguese Synagogue, also known as the Esnoga, was designed in the prevailing Neoclassical fashion popular in the Netherlands at the time, complete with pilasters and a concealed balustrade. Notably, during its construction, it held the distinction of being the largest of its kind worldwide and took inspiration from the architectural magnificence of the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem.

Remarkably untouched by the passage of time, the edifice stands sentinel over one of Amsterdam's busiest thoroughfares. Its design and interiors have remained virtually unaltered since the 17th century, allowing visitors to bask in the timeless beauty of its antiquities and grand décor. At night, the entire space is illuminated by approximately 1000 candles, eschewing electric lighting.

Why You Should Visit:
To experience the second-oldest continuously used synagogue in Europe.
Admission also grants access to the Jewish Historical Museum across the street.

Tip:
Don't miss exploring the various annexes connected to the main building, including the board room, winter synagogue, baths, office, candle room, mourning room, and rabbinate. Make sure to descend to the treasure chambers, which house exquisite items such as precious 16th-century manuscripts and tapestries adorned with gold thread, among other treasures. You'll also have the opportunity to view books from the oldest Jewish library in the world.

Editor's Note: Presently undergoing renovations, the memorial is scheduled to reopen in 2024, coinciding with the opening of the new National Holocaust Museum just across the street.

Originally, De Hollandsche Schouwburg served as a theater where Jewish artists could freely showcase their talents without hindrance. However, in October 1941, the Germans transformed it into an exclusive venue for Jews, marking it as a significant gathering point for Amsterdam's Jewish population before their harrowing deportation during the subsequent summer. Inside, the absence of natural light and the living conditions foreshadowed the grim reality of the camps to which these families would soon be transported.

Following the war, uncertainty surrounded the fate of the building, but ultimately, its facade underwent restoration, and the front section was refurbished. Today, the ground floor features an eternal flame positioned before a solemn list of the deceased; additionally, four short films narrate the theater's history and its tumultuous past. Ascending the stairs, visitors encounter a small exhibit focusing on the theater's pre-war era, while the floor above houses an exceptional exhibition detailing the plight of the city's Jewish community. This comprehensive exhibit includes numerous wartime photographs and poignant film clips.

In stark contrast, the old auditorium at the rear of the building has been preserved as an empty, open-air space with a missing roof. A memorial column made of basalt, set upon a Star of David base, now occupies the spot where the stage once stood—a profoundly mournful monument that serves as a solemn tribute to the unimaginable suffering endured by countless individuals.

Editor's Note: Currently not in operation, with plans for a reopening in early 2024.

While it is still in the process of development, this museum, located in a former school adjacent to a nursery, holds a significant historical narrative that merits a visit. Its focus lies in shedding light on the experiences of Jewish children, aged up to 12, who were forced to endure the agonizing wait, separated from their parents, before deportation.

In October 1942, following the Nazis' takeover of the nursery, members of the Jewish Council stationed at the deportation site, with assistance from the resistance and the nursery's director, embarked on a daring mission to rescue Jewish children, providing them refuge within the confines of the school. This initiative, though challenging, eventually evolved into a crucial smuggling network.

A visit to the Holocaust Museum is an emotionally charged experience, offering insight into the lives of younger children through the display of their belongings and narratives. The museum also features an exhibition of photographs, many of which were unearthed years after the war in personal collections or antique shops. These photographs and accompanying documents convey the personal stories of numerous individuals, serving as poignant reminders of the more than 104,000 Dutch Jewish lives tragically lost during the war.

Traveler's Tip:
Across the street, you can take some time to visit the National Holocaust Names Memorial, which prominently displays the names of every identified victim of the genocide in the Netherlands on its wall.