Lesser Town Walking Tour (Self Guided), Prague

One of Prague’s most iconic landmarks, the Charles Bridge wasn’t just built; it was timed. Construction began on July 9, 1357, at exactly 5:31 in the morning. The oddly precise timing wasn’t random. Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV was a firm believer in numerology and astrology. That moment created a palindrome—135797531—which, in his mind, would grant the bridge strength and longevity. Whether that worked, or whether the secret ingredient was the rumored mix of eggs, wine, or milk stirred into the foundations, we’ll never know. But over six centuries later, the bridge still stands.

Stretching over the Vltava River, it runs 516 meters long and nearly 10 meters wide, supported by 16 sturdy arches with ice guards to fend off the river’s freeze. Until 1841, this was the only way to cross from Prague’s Old Town to the Castle and the Lesser Town. With the boom in traffic in the 20th century, the bridge eventually closed to vehicles and became pedestrian-only in 1978.

Lining both sides are 30 striking Baroque statues, added from the late 1600s through the early 20th century. They complement the Gothic structure underneath and turn any stroll into a kind of open-air museum. As you head toward Lesser Town, keep an eye out for the bronze crucifix—the oldest statue on the bridge—as well as the dramatic tableau of Saint Francis Xavier converting four royal figures from faraway lands: an Indian, Moor, Chinese, and Tartar. Perhaps the most famous is the eighth statue on the right: Saint John of Nepomuk, thrown into the river for refusing to betray the Queen’s confession. Locals say touching his plaque brings luck—or guarantees you’ll return to Prague one day.

Tip: For a quieter, more magical walk, go at dawn or after sunset—when the statues seem to whisper, and the city hushes just long enough to hear them.

The renowned early-20th-century Jewish author Franz Kafka (1883–1924), although not typically regarded as Czech and composing his works in German, spent the majority of his short, angst-ridden existence in Prague. So, it's only fitting that his shrine finds its home here too. The designers of this museum apparently decided to fully embrace Kafka's darkly paranoid and paradoxical world, resulting in exhibits that stay true to this spirit. While some might find the results a tad eccentric, they certainly deserve an A for effort.

Prepare to be greeted by facsimiles of manuscripts, documents, first editions, photographs, and newspaper obituaries housed in glass vitrines, all set within what can only be described as "Kafkaesque" environments. Venture downstairs to the basement level, where things take a turn for the freaky, with expressionistic interpretations of Kafka's works, including a chilling model of the infamous torture machine from the "In the Penal Colony" story. Not exactly ideal for a casual stroll with young children or a romantic rendezvous, but an absolute must-see for anyone versed in Kafka's literary labyrinth.

Moving on to the upper floors, be prepared for audiovisuals and theatrical wizardry aimed at delving deep into the torment, alienation, and claustrophobia that permeated Kafka's life and reverberated through his writings. And on a slightly lighter note, don't overlook David Černý's attention-grabbing 'Pissing Figures' statue taking center stage in the courtyard outside, featuring two cheeky men relieving themselves into a pool shaped like none other than the Czech Republic itself.

Tip:
To truly immerse yourself in the Kafkaesque experience, it's advisable to secure a guided tour in advance. These tours are typically available in Czech, English, German, French, and Russian.

Behold the grandeur of this 17th-century palace, Prague's very first foray into Baroque architecture. Its high-walled gardens and opulent vaulted Renaissance 'sala terrena' (room opening onto a garden) simply scream elegance. As you wander through the meticulously manicured paths, you'll encounter a plethora of fountains and statues, each depicting classical mythological figures or valiant warriors triumphing over various beasts. Further along, prepare to have your mind blown by the "Grotto," a colossal dripstone wall adorned with an array of imaginative rock formations, including whimsical faces and hidden animals nestled within the charcoal-colored landscape. And let's not forget the tantalizing promise of "illusory hints of secret corridors" – because who doesn't love a good optical illusion?

Albrecht von Wallenstein, the one-time owner of this palace and gardens, catapulted into military stardom in 1622 when Emperor Ferdinand II of Austria decided he needed saving from the pesky Swedes and Protestants during the Thirty Years' War. Wallenstein, fueled by his marriage-induced riches, generously offered to raise and personally lead an army of 20,000 men – at his own expense, of course. In return, the Emperor showered him with confiscated lands and titles, including this vast area upon which our magnificent palace now stands. After razing two dozen houses, a brick factory, and three gardens, Wallenstein set to work on constructing something that would rival even the mighty Prague Castle. Nowadays, much of this regal abode serves as the Czech Senate's meeting chamber and offices. Inside, the Knight's Hall is adorned with a fresco featuring Wallenstein himself as the formidable Roman God of War, Mars, riding triumphantly in his chariot. And let's not overlook the palace's former riding school, now transformed into a spot for art exhibitions.

Tips:
Just remember, you can only enter the palace on weekends, while the gardens are open daily. Keep your eyes peeled for those discreetly marked entrances - wouldn't want to miss out on the grandeur enclosed within those towering walls. And if you happen to swing by in the summer, be sure to catch one of the garden's lively concerts or theatrical performances.

Since the 10th century, this arcaded square has been a center of activity on the left bank of the river—a place where merchants once gathered and locals exchanged more than just goods. These days, the rhythm continues with cafés, restaurants, and shops drawing in visitors, while weekend markets add extra color and energy.

Among the square’s most compelling landmarks is the 14th-century Old Town Hall, once the site where non-Catholic nobles drafted the “Czech Confession” in 1575—a bold call for religious tolerance addressed to the Habsburg emperor, later enshrined into Czech law. Today, that historic building has a new life as a nightclub and bar. But it’s the magnificient 18th-century Saint Nicholas Church that truly steals the show. Built over the remains of a Gothic chapel, its interior dazzles with exquisite statuary and a ceiling fresco that stretches across an astonishing 1,500 square meters.

If you’re sipping coffee at the local Starbucks, you’re actually seated in what used to be the Grömling Palace—a prime example of Prague’s Rococo flair. Across the square at number 18, look for the pistachio-and-vanilla-toned Smiřický Palace, easily recognized by its twin turrets. It was here, in 1618, that Protestant leaders convened before launching what would become the infamous Defenestration of Prague—an act that ignited the Thirty Years' War. Not far from there, the High Baroque Sternberg Palace now houses treasures from the National Gallery.

Commanding a significant portion of the square’s northern side is the Czech Parliament. So don’t be surprised to see suited officials weaving through the crowd—just another reminder that this historic space remains very much alive.

Towering over Lesser Town is a Baroque masterpiece—one of the most recognizable landmarks along Prague’s left bank. With its colossal green dome and soaring tower, this church was the grandest project of the Jesuits in Bohemia, a bold statement of their significant influence over the region in the 18th century. The contrast between the dome’s solid breadth and the tower’s slender elegance adds a distinctive flair to the city’s silhouette.

Step inside, and you’re met with a riot of pinks and greens that almost overwhelm the senses. The space is alive with movement—from the dynamic statues and vibrant frescoes to the polished, faux-marble columns. At the center, a sweeping ceiling painting brings to life the miracles of Saint Nicholas in true Baroque drama. But it’s the towering dome that steals the spotlight. Look up, and you’ll find four stern-faced Church Fathers circling the space—one of them even clutching a golden thunderbolt as if daring you to question the weight of their message.

The organ alone is worth the visit. Installed in the 1740s and fitted with more than 4,000 pipes, it once echoed with the music of Mozart himself, who played here during his time in Prague. After his death, this is where his Requiem was performed. With such acoustics, it's no wonder the church still hosts classical concerts to this day.

During the communist era, the bell tower wasn’t just a place of worship—it also served as a surveillance outpost for State Security, keeping a close eye on the embassies below. Now, you can climb the 299 steps to the gallery, perched 65 meters above the square, and enjoy a fine perspective over Lesser Town and the Charles Bridge beyond.

Passing through the arch beneath the Lesser Town Bridge Towers, you’ll find yourself on Bridge Street—a narrow cobblestone lane that has connected Charles Bridge to the Lesser Town Square for over 750 years. Framed by a mix of Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo facades dating between the 14th and 18th centuries, the street feels like a vivid time capsule. Some of the buildings still carry their original decorative touches: a chained bear at No. 4, a striking bronze door at No. 17, three goats at No. 18, and even a bust of cellist Zelenka. With all its character and charm, it’s no surprise this was once part of the royal coronation route.

Just beyond the towers, on the right side of the street, look for a house marked by three painted ostriches. Once home to Jan Fux, a feather merchant with a flair for fashion, the Renaissance-style building served as both residence and storefront. In 1606, Fux commissioned the bold ostrich design to advertise his trade in luxurious plumes—ostrich feathers were all the rage for hats, uniforms, horse trappings, fans, and finery of every sort.

As you continue your stroll, pause to admire the Gothic tower hidden in the courtyard of “At the Three Golden Bells,” the intricate ironwork and sculptural details on the “At the Black Eagle” house, and the candy-colored, pink-and-yellow Rococo facade of the Kounic Palace.

Toward street’s lower end, you’ll find a mix of boutique shops, inviting restaurants and bars catering to the stream of passersby. When it’s time for a break, stop in at ROESEL café—a warm, family-run spot inside a historic building. Enjoy their daily specials, try a slice of homemade cake with craft beer, and take a moment to explore the mini-exhibition and the charming courtyard.

Despite never setting foot in Czechoslovakia, John Lennon's messages of peace managed to penetrate the iron curtain and stir the souls of its residents. Enter the John Lennon Wall, a posthumous shrine born from the ashes of Lennon's untimely demise in 1980. An anonymous artist boldly defied Communist rule by adorning the wall with Beatles lyrics and the iconic image of the singer himself. Naturally, such subversive acts were deemed criminal by the powers that be.

The wall became a perpetual battleground, as authorities futilely attempted to erase the messages of dissent only to find them springing back to life like weeds in a concrete garden. Czech students took to the wall in 1988 to air their grievances, inciting clashes with the very security forces tasked with silencing their voices. Ironically, that movement was labeled "Lennonism," only to disparage its members as drunken lunatics and pawns of Western propaganda.

Fast forward to 2014, when a group of local art students whitewashed the wall, proclaiming the "Wall Is Over" and inviting the current generation to fill the void with their own musings. Prague's artistic community eagerly rose to the challenge, transforming the wall into a canvas of expression once more. The Beatles imagery was restored in 2019, a nod to the Velvet Revolution's anniversary.

Under the watchful eye of new regulations, spray painting on the wall is strictly forbidden. Instead, individuals are encouraged to express their freedom and love using more delicate mediums like pencils, markers, or chalk.

In a curious turn of events, the Church of Our Lady Victorious, with its unassuming façade reminiscent of its humble beginnings as a German Protestant church, hosts an outrageously kitschy wax figure of the infant Jesus, depicted as a precocious 3-year-old perched regally in a glass case. Revered for its purported miraculous abilities, this divine doll, affectionately dubbed the Bambino di Praga (or Infant Jesus of Prague), has garnered worldwide pilgrimage status, drawing throngs of visitors—primarily devout Catholics hailing from the sunny shores of southern Europe and Poland. Talk about making a splash in the religious artifact scene!

Originally imported from Spain in the 16th century, the "bambino" boasts an extensive wardrobe that would put even the most fashion-forward diva to shame - with nearly a hundred lavish outfits to its name, meticulously curated and regularly changed by the industrious Carmelite nuns. For those intrigued by the miniature deity's sartorial splendor, a minuscule museum awaits atop a spiral staircase in the south aisle, offering a glimpse of his luxurious velvet and satin ensembles, generously gifted from every corner of the globe.

For devout disciples seeking a piece of the divine to call their own, fear not! Replicas of the illustrious statue and a myriad of other religious paraphernalia are conveniently available for purchase at the souvenir shop, discreetly tucked away behind the main altar.

And yes, admission is miraculously free.

While exploring Petřín Hill, it's hard to miss the charming mini neo-Gothic castle, complete with a mock drawbridge. Serving as a replica of the Špička gateway of the 10th-century Vyšehrad fortress, it houses the Mirror Maze, originally showcased at the Jubilee Exhibition of 1891 before being relocated in 1892. It now welcomes visitors daily from April to October, with a reasonable entrance fee.

For a delightfully entertaining experience suitable for all ages, especially kids, a visit to the Mirror Maze is a must! Begin by navigating through the perplexing labyrinth of 31 ordinary mirrors (formerly 35, with four lost to the passage of time), then proceed to a room featuring a captivating diorama depicting the Battle of Charles Bridge of 1648. This impressive 80-square-meter painting, completed by Adolf and Karel Liebscher in just 50 days, depicts the valiant defense of Prague against invading Swedes. Another highlight is the Laughter Hall, aptly named for its collection of 14 convex and concave mirrors that distort reflections into amusing shapes and sizes.

Why You Should Visit:
The distorted mirrors here provide endless amusement, perfect for making silly faces and sharing laughs. For older children intrigued by history with a touch of gore, the battle-scene diorama provides a captivating experience not to be missed.

Following the grand unveiling of the Eiffel Tower in Paris in 1889, the Czech Tourist Club felt a void in the Prague skyline. In a remarkable feat of construction, the Petřín Lookout Tower was erected for the General Land Centennial Exhibition in 1891 in just four months, serving as a homage to its French counterpart. Although standing at a modest 60 meters in height, the tower is situated on a hilltop, surpassing the Eiffel Tower in elevation. Notably, it deviates from the French original with its octagonal, rather than square, cross-section.

Initially equipped with a lift for six, powered first by gas and later electricity, the tower underwent alterations in 1953 to accommodate a television broadcasting antenna, leading to the removal of the lift. Subsequent renovations from 1999 to 2002 saw the installation of a new lift designed for elderly and disabled visitors. For others, ascending the 299 steps to the observation deck offers one of the city's most spectacular viewpoints, with separate staircases designated for ascending and descending.

Why You Should Visit:
Excellent opportunity to enjoy a leisurely stroll through the picturesque parklands and to marvel at the panoramas of Prague's skyline.

Tip:
The most convenient way to reach the tower is via an uphill funicular ride from the Petřín station nestled within the park, adjacent to the Újezd tram stop. Ensure compliance with the standard regulations for Prague's public transport—validating your ticket before boarding. Alternatively, a leisurely walk through the park from the hilltop offers a cost-effective alternative.