Mozart Walking Tour (Self Guided), Salzburg

Mozart Square (Mozartplatz), in the historic Old Town of Salzburg, is named after the famous composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who was born in the city (just a few blocks away from this place, in fact) and spent most of his first 25 years here (from 1756 to 1781).

This area was redeveloped in the early 17th century by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau and was originally known as Michael's Square (Michaelsplatz), featuring a baroque fountain with a statue of Saint Michael. The latter was eventually replaced by the Mozart Monument (Mozartdenkmal) in 1842 to mark the 50th anniversary of the composer's death.

The monument was unveiled in the presence of Mozart's two surviving sons. The Roman mosaic found on the site during the construction is seen at the base of the statue, bearing an inscription about happiness and protection from evil. The marble pedestal of the statue was a gift from King Ludwig I of Bavaria. This monument was the first sign of public recognition the great composer had received from his hometown since his untimely passing. The music festival held that year sowed the seed for what would later become the world-renowned annual Salzburg Festival.

The square is bordered by several notable buildings. On the north side (adjacent to part of the old city wall dating back to the first half of the 1600s) is the Imhofstöckl edifice housing the city's tourist information office. The New Residence (Neue Residenz) at Number 1, which hosts the Salzburg Museum, together with several 17th-century houses with uniform facades, line the other sides of the square. Notably, one of these houses was the residence of Mozart's widow, Constanze Mozart-Nissen. The square also features the Salzburg Christmas Museum and Café Glockenspiel, sharing space at Number 2.

The on-site Resistance Memorial commemorates the transnational resistance against Bavaria's Wackersdorf reprocessing plant in the late 1980s. Inaugurated in 2000, it features a section of the original fence and a green radiation sign and honors over 420,000 objectors who influenced Austria's anti-nuclear policy.

Tip:
Those looking to buy tacky souvenirs should check out the Zum Mozart shop located at one of the corners of the square.

At the very heart of Salzburg's baroque historic district, the Residence Palace, also known as the Old Residence (Alte Residenz), overlooks Cathedral Square (Domplatz) and the spacious Residence Square (Residenzplatz) with its famous marble fountain. First mentioned in 1120, for centuries this place accommodated prince-archbishops of Salzburg who used it as a symbol of their political status.

The palace, in its present form, emerged at the turn of the 17th century as the home of Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, the most powerful among the city's prince-archbishops. The Wallistrakt wing of the palace, added in 1604, was the accommodation extension purpose-built for him. Throughout the 18th century, additional Baroque elements and artworks enhanced the palace's grandeur. Following the secularization of Salzburg in 1803, the property served the Austrian imperial family.

The Residence Galery (Residenzgalerie), added in 1923, houses an art collection that was gathered to replace the one lost during the Napoleonic wars. The gallery's sumptuous chambers and halls showcase a magnificent cross-section of European painters from the 16th to the 19th centuries (featuring the likes of Rembrandt, Rubens, and Brueghel).

Since the 1950s, the palace courtyard has provided a lovely setting for the Salzburg opera festival and is a good place to discover Mozart's lesser-known treasures.

It was in the state rooms of this palace that Mozart first performed for Salzburg's Archbishop. At the age of 14, he became the first violinist of the court orchestra, while at the age of 19, his violin concert (KV 219 in A major) was performed for the first time in the Conference Hall.

Tip:
Admission to the Residence Palace is included in the Salzburg Card if you buy it online before visiting. The tour can take two to three hours if you listen to the complete overview.
You can get an audio guide and visit many rooms within the palace (audience rooms, ballrooms, private rooms, etc.) while enjoying a superb aerial view of the square below.

Absolutely massive, incredibly ornate, and very welcoming towards visitors of all stripes, Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburger Dom) is the 17th-century Baroque church of the Roman Catholic denomination. It is dedicated to Saint Rupert and Saint Vergilius. The former founded the church in 774 on the remnants of a Roman town, and in 1181 the cathedral was rebuilt after a fire. In the 17th century, it was completely remodeled in the Baroque style under Prince-Bishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau to its present appearance.

In 1756, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was baptized here; the cathedral still contains the 14th-century Gothic baptismal font in which the composer was baptized (just see to the left upon entering). Famously, the grand bronze baptismal font was also used for the baptism of yet another artistic celebrity, Joseph Mohr, the Austrian writer, who wrote the words to the Christmas carol "Silent Night."

During World War II, the cathedral was damaged when a single bomb crashed through its central dome but was completely restored by 1959.

Salzburg Cathedral is framed by three arches linking it to the Residence Palace and Saint Peter's Abbey, creating an enclosed square. The cathedral's façade, made from dark grey stone with bright Untersberg marble, includes three portals leading to bronze doors, surrounded by statues of saints and topped with figures of the four evangelists and a scene of the Transfiguration of Jesus. The cathedral also houses historic bronze gates inside these portals, representing Faith, Hope, and Love, created by renowned sculptors in the mid-20th century.

The oldest bells in the cathedral are the Marien and the Virgil, both cast in 1628. The Salvator bell of the cathedral is the second largest bell in Austria, after the Pummerin bell in Vienna Cathedral.

Once inside, a number of organs are to be admired: one on each side of the high altar and a magnificent one in the rear traditional placing. Make sure to take a minute to sit in a pew and absorb everything around – you won't be disappointed. Cameras are allowed and there are some excellent photo opportunities to be had.

Tip:
Take a downward trip to the crypt – there is as much underground as above.
It is also worth attending a Sunday mass at 10 am, as you get a full orchestra and chorus.

Saint Peter's Abbey (Stift Sankt Peter) is a Benedictine monastery and former cathedral. Considered one of the oldest monasteries in the German-speaking world, the abbey was founded in 696 by Saint Rupert. Despite challenges during the Nazi regime in 1938, the abbey maintained operation and remains active to this very day.

A marvelous steeple crowned with an onion dome gives an admirable facade to the Abbey Church. Since its dedication in 1147, this Romanesque church underwent multiple renovations, acquiring its Rococo style in 1782. The church houses significant graves, including that of Martin Luther's superior.

Saint Peter's Abbey is home to Austria's oldest library, comprising nearly 100,000 volumes. The Rococo-style library is particularly noted for its extensive collection of manuscripts, incunabula, and local history volumes, along with special collections of graphics and maps. It also contains a notable collection of music manuscripts from composers like Mozart and Haydn. Additionally, the abbey houses diverse collections of paintings and other artifacts, although some are not accessible to the public. Access to the library requires a special permit.

During his early years in Salzburg, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart composed the Dominikus Mass for Saint Peter's Abbot Dominikus Hagenauer, in 1769. Hagenauer wrote in his diary: "Music for the Mass composed by Wolfgang Mozart, 14 years of age, was in every one's opinion most elegant. Wolfgang Mozart played on the great organ for half an hour to the astonishment of all." The composer returned to Saint Peter's in 1783 to conduct his "Mass in C minor," which is now performed at the Salzburg Festival each summer.

The abbey complex also contains a very old (established circa 700 AD) cemetery. The oldest graves in Saint Peter's Cemetery (Petersfriedhof) date back to the late 13th century. Distinguished individuals including Mozart's sister Nannerl (an accomplished musician in her own right), Joseph Haydn's brother Michael, and sculptor Josef Thorak are buried here.

The cemetery grounds are also known for the catacombs carved into rocks, which served as early Christian assembly places and hermitages. Wonderful to visit, they are filled with early altars, faded murals, and inscriptions.

In "The Sound of Music" movie, the Von Trapp family goes into hiding from the Nazis at a local cemetery. The actual scene was filmed on a Hollywood set meticulously recreating the setting inspired by Saint Peter's cemetery.

Why You Should Visit:
Everything here is free to visit except for the catacombs which cost a modest fee.

Every European city has what can be referred to as "the posh-café" – the one with history and elevated prices. The Café Tomaselli is the main contender for Salzburg's "posh-café" status, with a long and distinguished history going back over 300 years, allied to a good reputation and superb location. On the whole, it could easily be viewed as one of the city's best, especially in summer when it can spread out into the Old Market (Alter Markt) square, making for a perfect people-watching spot.

According to research, the origins of this coffeehouse can be traced back to 1700. Since then, the café changed hands several times, moving from its original location on Gold Lane (Goldgasse) to the Old Market in 1764. Carl Tomaselli purchased the place in 1852. In his hands, the café became renowned far beyond the borders of Salzburg.

Since the old days, celebrities such as Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Austrian poet and novelist Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Austrian theater and film director Max Reinhardt, and world-renowned musical conductor Herbert von Karajan, among others, frequented this place. Wolfgang Amadeus, in particular, used to have his almond milk here when he was young. The proprietor, Carl Tomaselli, the son of tenor Giuseppe Tomaselli from Milan, enjoyed a close relationship with the composer's family, playing music with his father Leopold, and his sister Nannerl. Later on, Wolfgang's widow, Constanze von Nissen, also lived in the same building, from 1820 to 1826.

Magnificent wood paneling with inlays adorns the walls and takes guests back in time, as do the marble tables, silver trays, waiters in dinner jackets, and the “cake ladies” who roam around with a tray of the most delicious-looking confectionery. Only women serve the cakes, while men serve the drinks – just a bit of a nice tradition! The place exudes stylish Austrian coffeehouse culture with its vibrant sense of living history and a tempting array of sweet dishes.

Local specialties include espresso topped with whipped cream (Einspänner) and espresso topped with steamed milk froth (Melange), Esterhazy or Dobos torte, apple, curd cheese, and berry strudel, strawberry dessert, Salzburger Nockerl slice, and croissants with walnut filling, plus a variety of egg dishes.

Tip:
Ideally, take a book of Stefan Zweig, go to Tomaselli, have one of their delicious coffees and pastries, and relax...

Mozart's Birthplace (Mozarts Geburtshaus or Hagenauerhaus), located at No. 9 Grain Lane (Getreidegasse) in Salzburg, is a historic site where the celebrated composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born on January 27, 1756. The Mozart family lived here from 1747 to 1773. The building, dating back to the 12th century, originally belonged to the Benedictine monks of Saint Peter's Abbey and had undergone several ownership changes before becoming the residence of the Mozarts.

Even after they gained fame, touring Europe's palaces and becoming the toast of Salzburg, the family continued living in this rather cramped apartment, as the father Leopold had no means other than the modest salary received as the Vice-Choirmaster at the Prince-Archbishop's court.

Since 1880, the site has been converted into a museum dedicated to Mozart's early life, showcasing his initial musical instruments, personal items, and interests, particularly in opera. The museum spans several floors, with the first floor recreating the living conditions of Mozart’s time, complete with period furniture, offering a glimpse into the daily life of the Mozart family during the 18th century. The second floor highlights his operatic interests, including the clavichord used to compose The Magic Flute.

Notable features of the museum include an incomplete portrait of Mozart by his brother-in-law Joseph Lange, pictures from his youth, and original family letters that shed light on his familial relationships and his life in Vienna. The third floor focuses on Mozart’s childhood through displays of his violin, portraits, documents, and music editions. The building itself retains historical elements from its past, including a symbol of Asclepius from its time as an apothecary's residence.

Tip:
Salzburg Card users need not join the long ticket queue. If planning to go to the Mozart Residence (a 5-minute walk away) as well, there is a special reduced-price ticket for both museums. Do visit the gift shop, either way, as it has some unique and interesting souvenirs for those caring to look a little closer.

One of the world's oldest puppet theaters in continuous operation, the Salzburger Marionetten has become popular with foreign tourists after being featured in the song, 'The Lonely Goatherd' from the 1965 Hollywood musical, 'The Sound of Music'. Established in 1913, it is a completely unique experience that enchants adults and children alike. Between 20 and 90 puppets are used for each performance, their charm expertly and realistically conveyed by their masters. With an ornate, richly decorated auditorium that incorporates grand lighting, cherubs aplenty and glamorous plaster work, the evening shows here are always authentic and memorable. You get a good view from anywhere, but it is better to pay more and get closer to the front so you can see the details in the marionettes and appreciate the skill with which they are worked.

***MOZART WALKING TOUR***
Many of Mozart's famous operas are in the repertoire, including 'Bastien and Bastienne' (with which the theater debuted in 1913) or the celebrated 'Magic Flute' which can be interpreted on so many levels, as it thinly disguises the major questions of the late 18th century. Why is a prince fit to rule? What is the role of the common man? Why is wisdom so important in a prince? Why is finding love so important? etc. etc.

Why You Should Visit:
The craftsmanship of the marionettes themselves and the artistry of the puppeteers who truly bring them to life in front of you are simply amazing! Expectations of tackiness are surpassed by professional and artful productions in a suitable setting.

Tip:
There are English subtitles to explain what's going on, but it doesn't hurt to be well versed in the story before attending.

The Dance Master's House (Tanzmeisterhaus), more popularly known as the Mozart Residence (Mozart-Wohnhaus), was once the home of Leopold Mozart and his family, from 1773 to 1787. Here, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart lived from ages 17 to 25. Located at Makart Square (Makartplatz) Number 8, this building, first documented in 1617, is now a museum.

Originally used by the court dancing master, this house was a venue for dance lessons for nobles. It came to be known as the Dance Master's House by 1713. After several ownership changes, it became the residence of the Mozart family in 1773, who moved here as their place in Grain Lane was no longer adequate for their needs. It was here, in the spacious apartment on the first floor, that the Mozart family would host social gatherings appropriately and where Wolfgang himself stayed until he moved to Vienna in 1781. Leopold Mozart continued to live here until his death in 1787.

The building was partially destroyed by bombs in 1944, but the consequent restoration in the 1950s preserved its late 18th-century stucco decoration. The on-site museum, opened in 1996, showcases musical instruments, documents, and the relocated Magic Flute House (Zauberflötenhäuschen), where Mozart reportedly composed his "The Magic Flute" opera.

A large painting of the family shows the prodigy with his father on the violin and his sister at the piano, while the mother – who had sadly died two years earlier in Paris – is portrayed separately above the threesome. Elsewhere, you'll see three circular targets high on the wall and the air rifle that the Mozarts used to shoot at them in the glass case nearby. These are just some of the marvelous artifacts displayed in the rooms.

Highlights include a screen presentation of Mozart's extensive travels throughout Europe initiated by his father, who was convinced they were essential to enlighten and humanize his prodigy son. In another room, you might be interested in the audio guide's explanation of how Leopold helped to immerse Wolfgang in playing music and later promoted his talented son. The last room has extensive information about how the "Mozart" name has been used for profit, and the one before it shows fraudulent portraits of Mozart throughout the years.

The museum is open daily: from 9 am to 5:30 pm (September through June); and from 8:30 am to 7 pm (July through August). The last admission is 30 minutes before closing.

Along with the International Mozarteum Foundation and the Mozarteum Orchestra Salzburg, the Mozarteum University is a separate entity under the "Mozarteum" moniker, with "Mozart is our inspiration, music our tradition, art our passion" as a motto. If you happen to be in Salzburg in July and August when the Mozarteum organizes events in the adjacent Grand Hall (or Großer Saal), you might be able to visit the so-called "Magic Flute House" (or "Zauberflötenhäuschen"), the little summerhouse where Mozart was allegedly locked in by his librettist, Emanuel Schikaneder, to ensure that he would finish the now-famous composition on time. Transported to Salzburg from its original location in Vienna, the house was much visited by the faithful, who would snatch shingles off its roof. It had to be restored several times, especially after the Second World War, when the structure suffered a considerable amount of damage during the bombing of the city.

Tip:
Attend a concert in the Stiftung Mozarteum if you can – you won't be disappointed.

The original Catholic church of Saint Sebastian in Salzburg was built between 1505 and 1512. What stands in its place now is the 18th-century remake by Austrian architect and stuccoist, Kassian Singer, dating from 1749-1753. The building features Late Baroque style with some Rococo elements, including the magnificent portal and impressive gate separating the entrance porch from the main nave. The high altar is adorned with a wonderful Madonna with Child, created in 1611.

In 1818 the church was ravaged by fire that consumed a beautiful ceiling fresco and the high altar painting by Paul Troger. During the ensued restoration, the charred Baroque paintings were replaced and the Sebastian relief, made by Konrad Asper between 1614 and 1620, was added to the outer façade.

***Mozart Walking Tour***
Given its proximity to their Wohnaus residence, the Mozart family often visited Saint Sebastian's for Catholic mass. Today, the mass here is still served entirely in Latin.

Many of the Mozarts are buried at the church's cemetery, including Wolfgang’s father Leopold and wife Constanze, his maternal grandmother Eva Rosina Pertl (1755), and Constanze’s second husband Georg Nikolaus Nissen (1826). Mozart’s two sisters-in-law, Aloysia Lange and Sophie Haibel, were also buried here but were later exhumed and re-buried at the Salzburg municipal cemetery.

The Saint Sebastian cemetery was designed by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau between 1595 and 1600, inspired by the Italian Campo Santo (“sacred field”). In the middle of the central square, surrounded by arcades, is the brightly tiled mannerist mausoleum of Archbishop Wolf Dietrich himself. Since 1564, a passageway leading to the cemetery has also been home to the tomb of famous Swiss scientist and scholar Theophrastus Bombastus von Hohenheim, better known as "Paracelsus".

Tip:
Don't miss the amazing catacombs set high in the rocks!