Vienna Old Town Walking Tour (Self Guided), Vienna

Stephansplatz stands as a central square in Vienna, situated at its geographical heart. This square takes its name from the Stephansdom, Vienna's primary cathedral and one of the world's tallest churches, which stands as its most prominent landmark. Before the 20th century, a line of houses separated Stephansplatz from Stock-im-Eisen-Platz. However, with the demolition of these structures, the name Stephansplatz came to encompass the broader area that includes both squares.

To the west and south, we find the upscale shopping streets known as der Graben, which translates to "the Ditch," and Kärntner Straße, with "Kärnten" being the German word for Carinthia. Opposite the Stephansdom lies the Haas-Haus, an architecturally striking modern building designed by Hans Hollein. Initially, public sentiment expressed skepticism about the juxtaposition of a medieval cathedral and a glass-and-steel structure. Nevertheless, it is now regarded as an exemplar of how old and contemporary architecture can coexist harmoniously.

Why You Should Visit:
While this might not be the best location for a gourmet meal, sitting in one of the local cafes does provide for world-class people watching in a prime historic location. With the Stephansdom dominating the scene, you can't go wrong.

Tip:
While in Stephansplatz, walk around the side of the Stephansdom to see a miniature thereof. It's quite fun to see it tiny!

Out of total 11 of Mozart's abodes in Vienna, Mozarthaus at Domgasse 5 is the only one that still exists – restored in 2006 to commemorate his 250th anniversary – and is where the composer reportedly spent his happiest years. Perhaps this explains the significant number of compositions Mozart created while here, including the exquisite Haydn-dedicated quartets, a handful of piano concertos and "The Marriage of Figaro" and "Don Giovanni" operas. From this point on it was all downhill for Mozart, who then moved to the suburbs due to financial difficulties.

Unlike some other famous house-museums in Vienna, this one has none of the original furnishings to see; instead, it focuses on the composer's genius and allows visitors to imagine how the spacious, elegant apartment might have looked. Concerts are regularly staged here, along with some activities for children.

It might be a good idea to take the lift to the 3rd floor and start your way from there downward, exploring Mozart's life as a child prodigy touring all across 18th-century Europe until finally moving from Salzburg to Vienna. His vices – namely: womanizing, gambling and ability to waste excessive amounts of money – lend a spicy edge. The 2nd floor deals with different versions of his operatic works (some played in sync), while the 1st floor focuses on the years that Mozart lived at this exact address.

Why You Should Visit:
To explore the life and work of the musical genius in a unique setting in the heart of Vienna. Nowhere else did Mozart compose more music. Visitors can see not only the historical apartment but also an extensive presentation of major works by Mozart and of the times in which he lived.

Tip:
Save on the entrance fee by combining your ticket with either Haus der Musik or Dom Museum Wien.

Placing a modern style edifice directly opposite the Gothic Stephansdom (Saint Stephen's Cathedral) was a difficult task with which the city entrusted one of Austria's leading Postmodernist architects, Hans Hollein, author of several uncompromising jewelry stores along der Graben and Kohlmarkt streets, each of which is a minor masterpiece in its own right. The result was the iconic 1990 Haas Haus, a shining, partly mirrored structure of glass, steel and blue-green marble that curves elegantly into the street, successfully blending into the colors, shapes, and grandeur of downtown Vienna.

The building looks pleasingly asymmetrical, replete with decorative elements, such as lopsided cubes of marble attached to the facade, a protruding structure high up resembling a diving board, and a Japanese-style bridge inside. The architecture proved an intelligent alternative to the demands of Historicism on the one hand and aggressive modernism on the other, presenting a futuristic, respectful challenge to the nearby Cathedral's soaring spires, reflected in the mirrored facade. Along with the office spaces, the Haas Haus atrium accommodates cafes, shops, a restaurant, and the upmarket DO & CO Hotel.

Tip:
Take a ride to the top of the building to check out the coffee house, and enjoy the view of the old Cathedral with a nice cup of coffee in hand.
Alternatively, visit the HAAS & HAAS TEAHOUSE (Mon-Sat: 8am–8pm; Sun/Holidays: 9am–6pm) located just outside the Cathedral.

Carinthian Street (Kärntner Straße) in Vienna is a key shopping artery and a part of the city’s so-called “Golden U” of pedestrian shopping zones, along with the Graben and Kohlmarkt. This street, with its upscale stores, traces its origins back to Vienna’s Roman era and was first documented in 1257 as Strata Carinthianorum. It historically linked the city center to the Carinthian Gate near today’s Vienna State Opera and served as a vital commercial route towards port cities like Venice and Trieste.

Named after the southern Austrian state of Carinthia, the street has undergone various name changes over the centuries. In the 19th century, it was expanded and adorned with historicist architecture, including several palaces that still stand today. The demolition of Vienna’s city walls and the extension of the street to Karl's Square (Karlsplatz) marked a period of prosperity, with the construction of representative department stores and shopping galleries.

Severely damaged during the Second World War, the Carinthian Street saw extensive post-war rebuilding, often sacrificing its historicist charm for more minimalist designs. In 1974, with the development of the Vienna U-Bahn, the street was transformed into a pedestrian zone. Today, it remains a premier shopping destination and cultural hub, housing several notable establishments including the Vienna State Opera, Palais Todesco, Palais Equitable, and the renowned Hotel Sacher. These sites, along with others like the Maltese Church and Palais Esterházy, contribute to the street’s blend of historical significance and modern-day allure.

If you're determined to treat yourself to the best chocolate cake in Vienna, if not anywhere, consider Sacher Café as a safe bet. Renowned for their world-famous cake, known as the Original Sacher-Torte, created by chef Franz Sacher for a Hapsburg royal party in 1832, this cafe has been in place since 1876 opened, along with the Sacher Hotel, by Sacher’s son Ed.

After Ed's death 16 years later, his wife Anna took over the business and attained global recognition, both for the hotel and the household cake brand. As of 1934, the Sacher Hotel and Café have been run by the Gürtler family, over which period the cafe has seen among its clientele the likes of Gandhi, Queen Elizabeth II and John F Kennedy. A visit to Sacher is truly a must while in Vienna; even on a tight budget – a mere €8 can get you a really good coffee and an excellent slice of cake.

Tip:
Inside the Sacher Hotel, there are three different colored fancy salons for dining, in addition to the main cafe, plus the 2-story Eck which views over the Opera House. If the cafe is overcrowded, consider getting your Sacher cake at the neighboring Sacher Stube Café which is run by the same family. If you are not sure which coffee pairs best with the cake, go for the traditional combination of Vienna's staple hot black coffee with foamed milk and whipped cream.

What better place to visit as an art lover while in Vienna? Located in the largest of the Habsburg dynasty's residential palaces, the Albertina is home to the largest and most valuable graphical collection in the world. You can look forward to priceless prints, over 65,000 water-colors and drawings, some 70,000 photographs, and pieces from all-over-the-world recognized artists, including the Old Masters: Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael, Rembrandt, and others.

There are many expositions to go through, but highlights include the Batliner Collection – an extraordinary display of modernist art, where you can admire Impressionist pieces from Monet, Degas, Cézanne or Picasso, and go through other artistic movements such as Fauvism, Brücke, Cubism or Surrealism – a very good counterpoint to the Italian/Flemish masterpieces of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Besides, if you are a big fan of Klimt and Schiele, then this is the perfect gallery for you.

Renovation has restored a number of features of the Albertina to their former glory, including the façades and the wide open central courtyard. The excellent DO & CO restaurant serves coffee, desserts and light meals while offering splendid vistas of the historical center, and the Burggarten is the perfect place to take a break. On your way to the exit, there is also a good-sized gift shop with books relevant to the artwork and artists on display, as well as souvenirs relevant to Vienna and Austria.

Why You Should Visit:
Beautiful building with a fantastic selection of artworks and art styles. Easy to get in with an online ticket (no waiting time).
The open balcony area on the top floor is an excellent place for picture taking, as it faces many of the city's historical buildings.

Tip:
Make sure you have at least 2.5 hours on your hands to check everything.
The audio guide is for all the exhibitions, so it is worth spending some extra for it.

The Imperial Crypt, also known as the Capuchin Crypt, is an underground burial chamber situated beneath the Capuchin Church and monastery in Neuer Markt square, within Vienna's Innere Stadt district, near the Hofburg Palace. This crypt was established in the year 1618 and formally consecrated in 1632.

The concept for a Capuchin cloister and burial crypt in the vicinity of the Hofburg castle was initiated by Anna of Tyrol, the spouse of Emperor Matthias. She allocated funds for its construction through her last will and testament on November 10, 1617, and tragically passed away just a year later. Subsequently, her husband also passed away a year after her demise.

From the year 1633 onward, the Imperial Crypt has served as the primary burial site for members of the House of Habsburg. It houses the remains of 145 Habsburg royals, along with urns containing the hearts or cremated remains of four others, including 12 emperors and 18 empresses. The crypt contains 107 visible metal sarcophagi and five heart urns, showcasing a diverse range of styles from simple and austere to ornate rococo designs.

Why You Should Visit:
Imperial Crypt tells a fascinating story of the Habsburg dynasty, one of the oldest and most significant Imperial families on the European continent, and, as such, is well worth a visit.

The Spanish Riding School (Spanische Reitschule) is renowned worldwide for its longstanding tradition – of over four and a half centuries – of preserving and practicing classical equestrian skills. Established in 1565, this is the oldest school of its kind in the world. The current white riding hall was constructed under Emperor Karl VI's commission in 1729.

The school is named for the Spanish horses foundational to the Lipizzan breed used here. The Lipizzaner stallions, named after the Lipizza stud farm near Trieste, Slovenia, were created by crossbreeding Arab, Berber, and Spanish horses known for elegance and endurance. They start intricate step training at age three.

These majestic animals are possibly the only horses globally that reside within an emperor's palace. With historical roots in ancient military horsemanship inspired by Spanish techniques, the school traditionally employed male riders, although it opened up to female riders too in 2008.

The Spanish Riding School offers 70 to 90-minute public demonstrations, featuring exceptional horsemanship and music, which have remained unchanged for decades.

The interior of the school exudes elegance, featuring 46 columns, intricate plasterwork, chandeliers, and a coffered ceiling. The royal box and galleries for spectators grace the head of the arena. As the riders make their entrance, it is customary for them to tip their hats in a gesture of respect to the portrait of Emperor Karl VI. The school courtyard is adorned with an equestrian statue of another emperor, Josef II.

If you're a horse lover, watching these incredible creatures is a must when in Vienna. But even if you are not fond of horse shows, a guided tour (in English or German) through the stabling and the riding arena is worth a visit anytime.

Tip:
If you like horses, it is great to see them train in the morning.
If you want to see them jump, go for the actual show. Make sure to book tickets online in advance to skip the long queues.
If you drop into the (not too expensive) on-site cafe for a coffee, drink, or snack, you can go out to the terrace, adjacent to which is a wooden enclosure where you can see the horses and their riders practice before the show - and that won't cost you anything!

Saint Michael's Square (Michaelerplatz) is a baroque-style, star-shaped square in the heart of Vienna that functions as the point of intersection of several streets and the northeast entry point to the Hofburg Palace.

The area's history traces back to the Roman legionary camp of Vindobona. A viewing spot for an excavation of this encampment is found at the center of the square.

As you enter, you can't help noticing the impressive Neo-Baroque Michael’s Gate (Michaelertor) leading through Saint Michael's Wing (Michaelertrakt) to the Hofburg’s inner courtyard. On both sides of the doorway are 19th-century fountains, created by Rudolf Weyer.

Opposite Michael’s Gate – on its eastern side – is the grand church of Saint Michael (Michaelerkirche), which lends its name to the square itself. The earliest parts of it date back to 1221, yet its present form originated in 1792.

The porch is topped by Baroque sculptures depicting the Fall of the Angels. Inside are 14th-century Renaissance frescoes, plus a carved, gilded organ – the largest in Vienna – once played by Joseph Haydn. Off the north choir is the crypt entrance. In the 17th and 18th centuries, local parishioners were often buried beneath the church; some of their well-preserved bodies, clothed in burial finery, can still be viewed in open coffins.

In the 20th century, the area saw significant developments such as the construction of Looshaus, one of the most modern buildings in Vienna at the time, designed by Adolf Loos. Although now famous, back in the day, it was considered an eyesore for its rather simple, unadorned design. So much so, in fact, that when completed in 1912, the building caused such an outrage on the part of Emperor Franz Joseph that he vowed never to use Michael’s Gate ever again. The cause of his indignation was the building’s starkly functional upper facade contrasting dramatically with the nearby fine ornate Baroque architecture. Today, the Looshaus is a working bank, but visitors are allowed into the lobby to view the elegant interior, which is richly clad in polished timber, green marble, and mirrors.

Other main sights overlooking the square include the Spanish Riding School; the Sisi Museum; the Neo-Baroque Herberstein Palace (Palais Herberstein); and two 18th-century apartment buildings known as Little Michael's House (Kleines Michaelerhaus) and Big Michael's House (Großes Michaelerhaus) – the latter being the former home of composer Joseph Haydn.

Tip:
Doing one of the horse-drawn carriage tours from here is highly recommended and worth the money as a great way to see central Vienna.

The Hofburg, which means the "Castle of the Court," is a cornerstone of Vienna's imperial and architectural history. Originating in 1279 as a residence for the Dukes of Austria, it expanded significantly to accommodate the growing power and prestige of the Habsburg dynasty. This expansion created the principal imperial palace, which served as the winter residence for the rulers of the Holy Roman Empire until 1806 and the Emperors of Austria until the end of the First World War in 1918. Since 1946, the palace has functioned as the official residence and workplace of the President of Austria and more recently as the permanent headquarters for the Organization for Security and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE).

The vast complex covers an area of over 240,000 square meters, comprising 18 wings, 19 courtyards, and 2,600 rooms. These include the Amalienburg, the Albertina, the Imperial Chapel (Hofkapelle), the Library (Hofbibliothek), the Treasury (Schatzkammer), the Burgtheater, the Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule), and the Imperial Mews (Hofstallungen).

A notable section, the Swiss Wing, is one of the earliest structures, dating back to the 13th century. Architectural developments continued over the centuries with additions made during Emperor Ferdinand I's reign in the 1550s, including the Swiss Gate that proudly displays his insignia. The Renaissance influence is also evident in the enhancements like the Leopoldine Wing, constructed in the 1660s and later reconstructed in a distinctive Late Renaissance style.

Significant too is the Court Library, integrated into the Hofburg complex in the 18th century, which boasts the grand Prunksaal hall and is richly adorned with a ceiling fresco and statues of emperors. The Winter Riding School and the Imperial Chancellery Wing also highlight the architectural evolution, originally designed to house imperial offices and notable residents such as Napoleon.

The Hofburg's Redoute Wing, originally an opera house, as well as the Imperial Mews that are now used by the Spanish Riding School, further exemplify the multifaceted functions of the palace. Each wing and structure here encapsulates a piece of Austria's eventful history, making it a central symbol of imperial tradition and architectural magnificence in Vienna.

Tip:
The Imperial Chapel inside the complex is open to the public. If you come for Sunday Mass, you can listen to the famous Vienna Boys Choir performing regularly.

Demel is a renowned Viennese pastry shop and chocolaterie, founded in 1786, which has held the prestigious title of Purveyor to the Imperial and Royal Court since 1874. Steeped in a Neo-baroque aesthetic, this shop is famous for its traditional service, with waitresses, known as Demelinerinnen, addressing customers in a formal third-person style.

Originally established on Saint Michael's Square (Michaelerplatz) by Ludwig Dehne, a confectioner from Württemberg, the business passed through family hands until 1857 when it was sold to Christoph Demel, an employee. Under the management of Demel's sons, Joseph and Karl, the shop was relocated to Kohlmarkt following the demolition of the old Burgtheater and subsequent refurbishment of Saint Michael's Square in 1888. Demel flourished during the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, attracting notable patrons like Empress Elisabeth (Sisi), Princess Pauline von Metternich, and actress Katharina Schratt.

The 20th century saw Demel engaged in a legal battle with the Hotel Sacher over the rights to the "Original Sacher Torte," a famous Viennese delicacy, which concluded in 1963 with a compromise allowing Demel to use a distinctive triangular seal for its version of the torte.

Today, Demel also houses a museum showcasing its imperial past and the art of chocolate making. This historic establishment continues to be a symbol of Vienna's rich culinary heritage and is a must-visit location for those wishing to enjoy an authentic Austrian delectable treat.

Saint Peter's Church (Peterskirche) in Vienna is a Baroque Roman Catholic parish church, nestled among surrounding buildings which make it visible primarily from the front. The site has hosted several iterations of a church, with the earliest possibly being Vienna's oldest, tracing back to the early 4th century AD. Originally a Roman encampment, the location saw a Romanesque church established here by none other than King Charlemagne himself in 792. There's a plaque on the building's facade that tells the tale of Charlemagne's involvement, adding a touch of historical significance. Historical documents, however, first reference a church here in 1137.

By the late 12th century, this church became associated with a Catholic monastery (Schottenstift) founded in Vienna in 1155. After a fire in 1661, the building saw only minimal repairs until the devastation of the 1679-1680 plague. Emperor Leopold I, a member of the Fraternity of the Holy Trinity, then vowed to reconstruct it.

Construction of the new Baroque church began around 1701, drawing inspiration from Saint Peter's Basilica in Rome. Consecrated in 1733, this church was the first domed structure in Baroque Vienna, featuring a compact, oval interior that maximizes its limited space.

The exterior boasts a predominantly white and very light yellow color scheme. Two towers grace the building, defining its classic outside appearance. These towers exhibit a slightly inward curve, a design said to be inspired by the tent poles used by the Turks who invaded the region in the late 1600s.

The interior is rich with gold stucco and frescoes by Johann Michael Rottmayr, depicting scenes such as the Coronation of Our Lady. The high altar showcases the Healing of the Lame by Saint Peter and Saint John. The church also houses several relics in its side chapels, including martyrs from Roman catacombs presented in glass coffins.

From 1998 to 2004, Saint Peter's Church underwent significant renovations and today remains a cherished monument of Vienna's religious and architectural heritage.

Tip:
Each day, from 3 to 3:30 pm, you can listen to live organ music here for free (donations are welcome). Choir performances are also frequent, with for-fee events in the underground vaults.

The Graben, a vibrant, central thoroughfare in Vienna, originated from the old Roman encampment of Vindobona. For a long time, it was marked by a ditch (“graben” in German) in front of the city walls. In the 12th century, the ditch was filled in and the area transformed into a residential street with the expansion of the city by the Babenberg Dukes, funded by ransom from Richard the Lionheart. This expansion also retained the street's name due to the large, undeveloped areas nearby.

The city's planned extension during the Middle Ages found reflection in the differing building patterns on either side of the Graben. While the north side remained irregular with limited access, the south side developed five regular side streets, changing the landscape over time. The Graben's evolution continued as it became Vienna's main arterial road.

The Baroque Era saw the Graben's further transformation into a fashionable promenade, with significant buildings like the Arkadenhof marking its status. The 18th century brought regulations that emphasized its role as a market and social space, attracting not only the nobility but also entrepreneurs and other city elite. The 19th century made it a hub for luxury shops and eventually a key pedestrian zone by the mid-20th century.

You can start your journey at Stock-im-Eisen-Platz and make your way to the opposite end, Tuchlauben, while passing by some remarkable historic buildings. Among these are the Ankerhaus, once the residence of Otto Wagner, and the Palais Bartolotti-Partenfeld, a beloved summer residence of the renowned Baron family, to name just a few.

During your stroll, be sure to visit the Generalihof, which once served as the headquarters of the "Music Magazine" (Musikalisches Magazin), established in 1784 and responsible for the initial publication of some of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart's works. As you continue down the street, you'll come across the Grabenhof, an iconic building erected in 1876 on the site of the historical Arkadenhaus, which existed since the late 16th century. Your exploration of the Graben wouldn't be complete without a visit to the ERSTE Foundation building, home to Austria's largest savings bank's headquarters (Erste Österreichische Spar Casse).

Also, don't miss the Plague Column (die Wiener Pestsäule), otherwise known as the Holy Trinity Column (Dreifaltigkeitssäule), erected by Emperor Leopold I following the Great Plague of Vienna in 1679.

While remarkable architecture is commonplace in Vienna, the majestic Saint Stephen's Cathedral (Stephansdom) is absolutely unmistakable. A central figure in Vienna’s spiritual and architectural landscape, it was constructed on the remnants of two earlier churches, with the first consecrated in 1147. The cathedral now exhibits a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles, primarily developed under Duke Rudolf IV in the mid-14th century.

The building extends over 107 meters in length and 40 meters in width, with its tallest point, the South Tower (affectionately referred to as "Steffl" – a diminutive form of "Stephen"), reaching 136 meters. This tower, completed in 1433 after 65 years of construction, served crucial defensive roles during the sieges of Vienna and housed a watchman’s apartment until 1955. Contrastingly, the North Tower remains unfinished, capped at 68 meters with a Renaissance dome since 1578.

Saint Stephen’s notable features include its vibrant, tiled roof adorned with 230,000 glazed tiles portraying symbols like the Habsburg double-headed eagle and the coats of arms of Vienna and Austria. Despite severe damage during a 1945 fire, the roof was meticulously restored, substituting the original wood with 600 metric tons of steel, enhancing its resilience and self-cleaning capability.

The cathedral houses an impressive array of bells, including Pummerin, the second-largest swinging bell in Europe, cast from captured Turkish cannons in 1711 and recast in 1951 after being destroyed. This bell, alongside others in the South Tower and the Roman Tower, marks significant religious ceremonies and daily prayers.

Saint Stephen's also harbors deep connections with notable composers like Ludwig van Beethoven, who recognized his complete deafness here, Joseph Haydn, who used to sing at Saint Stephen's as a choir boy, Johann Strauss, who married twice within these walls, and Mozart, for whom the cathedral served as both his parish church and the site of his marriage and funeral.

The interior is adorned with 18 altars, including the High Altar and the Vienna New Town (Wiener Neustadt) Altar, and features the Maria Pötsch Icon, a revered Byzantine-style depiction of Saint Mary with Jesus, credited with miraculous powers.

Saint Stephen's houses several chapels, each with unique significance. The Chapel of the Cross contains the burial of Prince Eugene of Savoy and was the site of Mozart's funeral. Saint Valentine's Chapel holds numerous relics, including Saint Valentine's bones. The cathedral also encompasses historic tombs, catacombs, and crypts, storing the remains of over 11,000 people and significant Habsburg dynasty members.

Tip:
Be sure to make a loop around the structure as there are many interesting details still visible on the outside walls.