Eglise Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis (St. Paul-St Louis Church), Paris

The Church of Saint Paul and Saint Louis is a monumental example of Jesuit Baroque architecture, constructed between 1627 and 1641. Commissioned by King Louis XIII and designed by Jesuit architects, it marked a significant shift in Parisian religious architecture from Gothic to Baroque. Its construction was part of a broader Jesuit effort to replace the older Saint-Paul-des-Champs Church, which dated back to 1125. The older church and its adjoining cemetery, which contained the remains of notable individuals such as the writer François Rabelais, were demolished by 1799.

The new church, dedicated to Saint Louis, saw Cardinal Richelieu, one of the lead characters in Alexandre Dumas's “The Three Musketeers” novel, serve the first mass here in the presence of the royal family.

During the French Revolution, the church was badly damaged, with invaders stealing most artifacts and collectibles. The not-stolen items were brutally broken, largely depriving the establishment of its valuable assets. A handful of works, that have survived unharmed, can now be seen near the entrance. Also, fortunately enough, the church has retained its abundant internal carvings.

Throughout its history, the building had served various secular purposes, including briefly as a "Temple of Reason" under the Revolutionary government, which banned traditional religion, before being restored to religious use in 1802.

Architecturally, the church features a façade heavily influenced by Italian Baroque, particularly mirroring the Church of the Gesù in Rome. It showcases a three-bay design adorned with Corinthian and composite columns, a high façade, and a bell tower—elements that were pioneering in Paris and influenced other major constructions such as the Les Invalides complex of buildings. The massive red doors and asymmetrical clock face give it a burst of whimsy that makes it worth a quick stop as you wander through the streets of Le Marais.

The interior continues the Baroque theme, aiming to outshine Protestant austerity with its lavish decoration, large windows, and a 195-foot dome. Notably, the white marble altar includes pieces from Napoleon's tomb, and Victor Hugo contributed clam-shell holy water vessels in memory of his daughter.

The church also boasts a rich collection of stained glass, sculptures, and 17th-century paintings emphasizing the life of Saint Louis. Its gallery organ, having undergone multiple restorations, now features a blend of historical and modern craftsmanship, further enhancing the church's cultural heritage. From time to time, some of the church's artifacts, like a Delacroix painting, are loaned to museums around the world, such as the Metropolitan Museum in New York.