Le Marais Walking Tour (Self Guided), Paris

The City Hall of Paris, overlooking its namesake square, is the largest city hall building in Europe. Historically central to Parisian life, this location has been the city’s administrative hub since 1357 when the provost of merchants purchased the site intending to make it a public gathering space. Curiously enough, the early sessions of the Paris municipal council were held at the home of a city mayor – the practice continued until the 16th century when King Francis I ordered a purpose-built edifice for that. The Renaissance-style building's south wing was commissioned in 1535. Later, it was joined by the north wing, in 1605, under Henry IV and Louis XIII.

As the French Revolution headquarters, the City Hall accommodated Maximilien Robespierre and his supporters. Ironically, it was here that Robespierre himself was arrested in 1794, at the end of the infamous Rule of Terror period, during which anyone opposing the revolution was sent to the guillotine.

In 1835, the building was expanded to accommodate the growing city government. However, during the Franco-Prussian War and the Paris Commune, it once again became a stage for political upheaval, culminating in its near-total destruction. During the final days of the Paris Commune, when their defeat was imminent and the French army closed in on the building then used as the Paris Commune headquarters, the Communards set it ablaze, completely destroying everything inside, including the city archives.

Reconstruction between 1874 and 1882 adhered to the original Renaissance-style exterior, while the interior had to be created anew, including lavish ceremonial rooms decorated with murals by noted artists. The façade featured 108 statues by prominent sculptors, including Auguste Rodin, who created the likenesses of famous Parisians such as philosophers Voltaire and Jean-Jacques Rousseau, writer Charles Perrault (author of "The Sleeping Beauty", "Little Red Riding Hood", and "Cinderella"), sculptor Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, and many others. Another thirty statues here represent French cities. The clock at the central tower is also adorned with statues – several female sculptures depicting the river Seine, the city of Paris, the “Work,” and the “Education”.

In the 20th century, the City Hall witnessed Charles de Gaulle’s Liberation speech in 1944. In recent years, the Mayor of Paris opened the building to public events including the annual White Night festival. The City Hall also played a role in the 2024 Olympics, hosting the start of the marathon.

While public access to the City Hall is generally restricted, there are two rooms in the building constantly allocated to art exhibitions: one for photography, and one for art in general. Also, there are almost always some cultural events taking place outside, in the square in front of the building.

Built between 1474 and 1519 as a home for the bishop Tristan de Salazar, Hôtel de Sens is one of the three original medieval residences left in Paris. The building's mixed architectural design reveals transitions that had taken place between the Medieval and Renaissance epochs, primarily showing elements of a Gothic-style fortification structure. There are turrets (armored towers) for observing the surrounding area, a square tower that served as a dungeon, as well as an arched entryway with built-in slopping passages from where boiling hot oil could be poured upon would-be attackers.

On a different note, in 1605, Queen Margot, ex-wife of King Henri IV of Navarre, settled in the hotel. Eccentric by nature and with a taste for lavish lifestyle, she reportedly indulged herself with numerous love affairs here and is said to have gathered her lovers' hair to make wigs that she later sported.

Sold off in 1797, the structure was badly mutilated during the 19th century and subdivided for a multitude of uses. After the French Revolution (which left it with a cannonball still lodged in the wall), it was occupied by art students and, at some point, was turned into a jam factory. After decades of public pressure, it was finally saved by the city government, which undertook an ambitious restoration program between 1933-61.

The building as we see it today is largely a reconstitution of the original, based on drawings dating back to the 17th century. The main staircase tower, however, is original, as is the wonderfully picturesque entrance front. Despite its somewhat fanciful restoration, the Hôtel de Sens is nonetheless an evocative remnant of medieval Paris – currently, home of the Bibliothèque Forney devoted to decorative and fine arts, as well as industrial techniques.

On your tour of Paris, make sure to stop by and admire this medieval residence's elegant formal gardens and dramatic design. Sit down on one of the garden benches and relax, detached from the nearby hectic city. It's a lovely place to take a little picnic lunch before continuing your Marais exploring.

The Saint Paul-Saint Louis Church is one of the oldest Jesuit sites in Paris. Completed in 1641, it boasts an abundance of classical elements, such as Corinthian pillars and heavy ornamentation, and was greatly influenced by Baroque architecture, introduced by the Romans. The salient feature of the church is a 195-foot dome, which is best viewed from the inside because the columns of the three-tiered church’s front elevation hide the dome. The church is designed marvelously with clean classical architectural lines that run through the nave and side aisles. Arches have been embellished with astounding Baroque decorations, while sculptures have been posted and paintings been drawn in the style liked by the Jesuits in the 17th century.

Louis XIII laid the foundation of the church in 1627. In 1641, Cardinal Richelieu served the first mass here in the presence of the royal family. The church was badly damaged during the French Revolution, with invaders stealing most artifacts and collectibles. The not-stolen items were brutally broken, largely depriving the establishment of its precious assets. A handful of works, that have survived unharmed, can now be seen near the entrance; also, fortunately enough, the church has retained its abundant internal carvings.

The Saint Paul-St Louis also briefly served as a "Temple of Reason" under the Revolutionary government, which had banned traditional religion. Nearly 250 years after its construction, in 1872, it was finally re-consecrated and has served since as one of the local community churches. The massive red doors and asymmetrical clock face give it a burst of whimsy that makes it worth a quick stop as you wander through the streets of Le Marais.

Vosges Square is the oldest planned square in Paris. Originally known as Royal Square, it was built from 1605 to 1612 under King Henri IV on the site of the complex of buildings demolished by Catherine de' Medici.

This 140-by-140-meter square was among Europe’s earliest examples of royal city planning, inspiring similar urban designs in cities across the continent. The square’s perfectly symmetrical layout features uniformly styled red brick facades with stone accents, vaulted arcades, and blue slate roofs with dormers. Of special note are the balconies, the first extended ones ever built in Paris. The northern and southern facades rise higher, with the so-called Pavilion of the King and Pavilion of the Queen marked by triple arches. Though no monarch resided there permanently, Anne of Austria briefly stayed in the Queen's Pavilion.

Originally celebrated with a grand event for the engagement of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria, Vosges Square became a prototype for aristocratic urban planning and was an elite address for Parisian nobility in the 17th and 18th centuries. Its reputation as a meeting place for the aristocracy continued until the French Revolution, after which the nobility largely relocated to the Faubourg Saint-Germain district.

The square’s name changed several times. During the French Revolution, it was briefly renamed “Weapons Manufacturing Square” and, in 1800, became Vosges Square in recognition of the Vosges department, the first to pay taxes supporting the Revolutionary army. Restoration of monarchs temporarily returned it to its original name, and in 1830 it briefly became “Republic Square”. Since 1870, the revolutionary name “Vosges Square” has remained.

Today, the square represents a well-manicured park with mature lindens and grass, surrounded by trimmed, shady trees, refreshing fountains, and sandy walkways. Boxed in by upscale properties, this elegant 17th-century garden is a bit of a hidden gem invisible to the outsiders. But locals know it all too well and gather here regularly on weekends, especially in summer.

Once home to notable figures like Victor Hugo, whose preserved residence is now a museum, the area’s allure is tied to its heritage. Ground floors house art shops, boutiques, and bohemian-style bars, offering a relaxed setting for a quick snack or drink. Diverse dining options, including kosher and ethnic cuisines, add to the charm, making it a favorite for history buffs, art enthusiasts, and casual visitors alike.

The House of Victor Hugo, a monographic museum at Vosges Square No. 6, is where the famous French author resided from 1832 to 1848. Hugo moved into a spacious 280-square-meter apartment on the building’s second floor together with his family and enjoyed here a vibrant social life. His residence became a gathering place for prominent literary figures like Alexandre Dumas, Honoré de Balzac, and Prosper Mérimée. Here, Hugo experienced both personal joy, like his daughter Léopoldine’s marriage, and sorrow, notably her tragic death in 1843. During these 16 years, the writer composed significant works such as Les Misérables, The Burgraves, and The Twilight Songs.

After Hugo’s departure in 1848, the apartment underwent structural changes, though it retained its original layout. In 1902, on Hugo’s centenary, a close friend of the writer and executor of his will donated items to establish the museum, which opened in 1903. The museum’s collection includes Hugo’s drawings, manuscripts, photographs, and various personal artifacts.

Recently renovated, the museum features new amenities like an educational workshop and a tea room overlooking a courtyard garden. Visitors can explore the Hugo family apartment, arranged in seven rooms that trace his life “before, during, and after exile.” Highlights include the red living room, which captures his early career with paintings and memorabilia, the Chinese-decorated drawing room, the Medieval-style dining room, and his study, with original furnishings from his later years. The final room recreates Hugo’s death chamber in 1885.

Upon the announcement of Hugo’s death, aged 83, over two million people took to the streets to bid farewell to the writer at his funeral procession stretching from the Arch of Triumph to his final resting place at The Pantheon. That procession is depicted in one of the paintings displayed at the museum.

The museum’s first floor holds a permanent exhibition of Hugo's drawings plus the iconography of his literary works. At times, there are also temporary exhibitions and displays a rotating selection of Hugo’s drawings. A library with over 11,000 works on Hugo is open to researchers by appointment.

The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., except Mondays and holidays, and is free to enter. For visitor's convenience, there is an audio guide in English which helps put into context all that is there to see.

Once a street where artisan weavers worked, today Rue des Francs-Bourgeois is a trendy shopping area of fashion and design in Paris, running along the route of Philippe Auguste's old city walls. Dotted with many designer boutiques, often housed in beautiful old townhouses (some of which are set back in courtyards), you can find numerous French clothing brands, jewelries and perfumes. There's something for everyone in just a few blocks.

The street and its surrounding area also boast many cafés, restaurants and the facades of magnificent mansion houses (Soubise, Rohan-Strasbourg, and others).

Since Rue des Francs-Bourgeois is one of the few streets which largely ignores France's strong tradition of Sunday closure, it is a popular location for weekend brunches, walks and people watching.

Immerse yourself in the French capital’s rich history at the Carnavalet Museum that occupies two neighboring mansions: the Hôtel Carnavalet and the former Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint Fargeau. The former is a Renaissance jewel that was the home of writer Madame de Sévigné from 1677 to 1696.

Inside the museum's over 100 rooms, the exhibits show the transformation of the village of Lutèce, which was inhabited by the Parisii tribes, to the grand city of today with a population of more than 2 millions.

The Carnavalet houses about 2,600 paintings, 20,000 drawings, 300,000 engravings and 150,000 photographs, 2,000 modern sculptures and 800 pieces of furniture, thousands of ceramics, many decorations, models and reliefs, signs, thousands of coins, countless items, many of them souvenirs of famous characters, and thousands of archeological fragments.

Of particular interest among the exhibits are those related to the Revolution, featuring detailed scale models of guillotines and a replica of the Bastille prison made from one of its original stones. Also featured is a reconstruction of Louis XVI's prison cell and personal mementos from his life, such as medallions containing locks of his family's hair. Additionally, visitors can marvel at impressive interior recreations spanning from the Middle Ages to the rococo period, as well as Art Nouveau, with highlights including the original furnishings of the Café de Paris and the exquisite jewelry shop Fouquet.

Why You Should Visit:
Musée Carnavalet provides the most compelling summary of the history of Paris – its politics, art, and people. No other place in Paris offers such a comprehensive insight into the city's historical development over the centuries.

Rue des Rosiers, or "Street of the Rosebushes", is a winding, pedestrian-only street running through the historic Jewish quarter in Marais. Jewish communities have lived in the nearby neighborhood since the 13th century and the area used to be called "The Old Jewry".

During the last two decades, Rue des Rosiers has been going through a transformation, seeing many fashion boutiques moving in. Fortunately, however, the Jewish shops and restaurants have stayed on, so you can still find the kosher restaurants with delicious kosher cuisine that follows all kosher rules.

With its yellow façade, Boutique Jaune at #27 is perhaps the most traditional Yiddish bakery you'll find. Having been family-run for three generations, it retains a delightfully old-school vibe. Since its opening in 1946, shopping at Boutique Jaune has changed very little, adding to its charm.

Similar to the nearby Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, shops on Rue de Rosier remain open on Sunday, so the street is another meeting point for Parisians who want to eat out and shop on Sunday or during any of the off days.