Le Marais Walking Tour (Self Guided), Paris

The City Hall of Paris, overlooking its namesake square, is the largest city hall building in Europe. Historically central to Parisian life, this location has been the city’s administrative hub since 1357 when the provost of merchants purchased the site intending to make it a public gathering space. Curiously enough, the early sessions of the Paris municipal council were held at the home of a city mayor – the practice continued until the 16th century when King Francis I ordered a purpose-built edifice for that. The Renaissance-style building's south wing was commissioned in 1535. Later, it was joined by the north wing, in 1605, under Henry IV and Louis XIII.

As the French Revolution headquarters, the City Hall accommodated Maximilien Robespierre and his supporters. Ironically, it was here that Robespierre himself was arrested in 1794, at the end of the infamous Rule of Terror period, during which anyone opposing the revolution was sent to the guillotine.

In 1835, the building was expanded to accommodate the growing city government. However, during the Franco-Prussian War and the Paris Commune, it once again became a stage for political upheaval, culminating in its near-total destruction. During the final days of the Paris Commune, when their defeat was imminent and the French army closed in on the building then used as the Paris Commune headquarters, the Communards set it ablaze, completely destroying everything inside, including the city archives.

Reconstruction between 1874 and 1882 adhered to the original Renaissance-style exterior, while the interior had to be created anew, including lavish ceremonial rooms decorated with murals by noted artists. The façade featured 108 statues by prominent sculptors, including Auguste Rodin, who created the likenesses of famous Parisians such as philosophers Voltaire and Jean-Jacques Rousseau, writer Charles Perrault (author of "The Sleeping Beauty", "Little Red Riding Hood", and "Cinderella"), sculptor Jean-Baptiste Pigalle, and many others. Another thirty statues here represent French cities. The clock at the central tower is also adorned with statues – several female sculptures depicting the river Seine, the city of Paris, the “Work,” and the “Education”.

In the 20th century, the City Hall witnessed Charles de Gaulle’s Liberation speech in 1944. In recent years, the Mayor of Paris opened the building to public events including the annual White Night festival. The City Hall also played a role in the 2024 Olympics, hosting the start of the marathon.

While public access to the City Hall is generally restricted, there are two rooms in the building constantly allocated to art exhibitions: one for photography, and one for art in general. Also, there are almost always some cultural events taking place outside, in the square in front of the building.

Built between 1474 and 1519 as a home for the bishop Tristan de Salazar, Hôtel de Sens is one of the three original medieval residences left in Paris. The building's mixed architectural design reveals transitions that had taken place between the Medieval and Renaissance epochs, primarily showing elements of a Gothic-style fortification structure. It has turrets for observing the surrounding area, a square tower that once served as a dungeon, and an arched entryway with built-in slopping passages from where boiling hot oil could be poured upon would-be attackers.

On a different note, in 1605, Queen Margot, the ex-wife of King Henri IV of Navarre, settled in this house. Eccentric by nature and with a taste for lavish lifestyle, she reportedly indulged herself in numerous love affairs and is said to have gathered her lovers' hair to make wigs that she later sported.

Sold off in 1797, the property was badly mutilated during the 19th century and subdivided for a multitude of uses. After the French Revolution (which left it with a cannonball still lodged in its wall), the building was occupied by art students and, at some point, turned into a jam factory. After decades of public pressure, it was saved from destruction by the city government, which undertook an ambitious restoration program from 1933 to 1961.

As we see it now, the building is largely a reconstitution of the original, based on drawings from the 17th century. The main staircase tower, however, is original, as is the wonderfully picturesque entrance front. Despite its somewhat fanciful restoration, the Hôtel de Sens remains an evocative remnant of medieval Paris. Presently, it is home to the Forney Library, which specializes in decorative and fine arts and industrial techniques.

On your tour of Paris, make sure to stop by and admire this medieval residence's elegant formal gardens and dramatic design. Sit down on one of the garden benches and relax, detached from the nearby hectic city life. It's a lovely place to take a little picnic lunch before continuing your Marais exploration.

The Church of Saint Paul and Saint Louis is a monumental example of Jesuit Baroque architecture, constructed between 1627 and 1641. Commissioned by King Louis XIII and designed by Jesuit architects, it marked a significant shift in Parisian religious architecture from Gothic to Baroque. Its construction was part of a broader Jesuit effort to replace the older Saint-Paul-des-Champs Church, which dated back to 1125. The older church and its adjoining cemetery, which contained the remains of notable individuals such as the writer François Rabelais, were demolished by 1799.

The new church, dedicated to Saint Louis, saw Cardinal Richelieu, one of the lead characters in Alexandre Dumas's “The Three Musketeers” novel, serve the first mass here in the presence of the royal family.

During the French Revolution, the church was badly damaged, with invaders stealing most artifacts and collectibles. The not-stolen items were brutally broken, largely depriving the establishment of its valuable assets. A handful of works, that have survived unharmed, can now be seen near the entrance. Also, fortunately enough, the church has retained its abundant internal carvings.

Throughout its history, the building had served various secular purposes, including briefly as a "Temple of Reason" under the Revolutionary government, which banned traditional religion, before being restored to religious use in 1802.

Architecturally, the church features a façade heavily influenced by Italian Baroque, particularly mirroring the Church of the Gesù in Rome. It showcases a three-bay design adorned with Corinthian and composite columns, a high façade, and a bell tower—elements that were pioneering in Paris and influenced other major constructions such as the Les Invalides complex of buildings. The massive red doors and asymmetrical clock face give it a burst of whimsy that makes it worth a quick stop as you wander through the streets of Le Marais.

The interior continues the Baroque theme, aiming to outshine Protestant austerity with its lavish decoration, large windows, and a 195-foot dome. Notably, the white marble altar includes pieces from Napoleon's tomb, and Victor Hugo contributed clam-shell holy water vessels in memory of his daughter.

The church also boasts a rich collection of stained glass, sculptures, and 17th-century paintings emphasizing the life of Saint Louis. Its gallery organ, having undergone multiple restorations, now features a blend of historical and modern craftsmanship, further enhancing the church's cultural heritage. From time to time, some of the church's artifacts, like a Delacroix painting, are loaned to museums around the world, such as the Metropolitan Museum in New York.

Vosges Square is the oldest planned square in Paris. Originally known as Royal Square, it was built from 1605 to 1612 under King Henri IV on the site of the complex of buildings demolished by Catherine de' Medici.

This 140-by-140-meter square was among Europe’s earliest examples of royal city planning, inspiring similar urban designs in cities across the continent. The square’s perfectly symmetrical layout features uniformly styled red brick facades with stone accents, vaulted arcades, and blue slate roofs with dormers. Of special note are the balconies, the first extended ones ever built in Paris. The northern and southern facades rise higher, with the so-called Pavilion of the King and Pavilion of the Queen marked by triple arches. Though no monarch resided there permanently, Anne of Austria briefly stayed in the Queen's Pavilion.

Originally celebrated with a grand event for the engagement of Louis XIII and Anne of Austria, Vosges Square became a prototype for aristocratic urban planning and was an elite address for Parisian nobility in the 17th and 18th centuries. Its reputation as a meeting place for the aristocracy continued until the French Revolution, after which the nobility largely relocated to the Faubourg Saint-Germain district.

The square’s name changed several times. During the French Revolution, it was briefly renamed “Weapons Manufacturing Square” and, in 1800, became Vosges Square in recognition of the Vosges department, the first to pay taxes supporting the Revolutionary army. Restoration of monarchs temporarily returned it to its original name, and in 1830 it briefly became “Republic Square”. Since 1870, the revolutionary name “Vosges Square” has remained.

Today, the square represents a well-manicured park with mature lindens and grass, surrounded by trimmed, shady trees, refreshing fountains, and sandy walkways. Boxed in by upscale properties, this elegant 17th-century garden is a bit of a hidden gem invisible to the outsiders. But locals know it all too well and gather here regularly on weekends, especially in summer.

Once home to notable figures like Victor Hugo, whose preserved residence is now a museum, the area’s allure is tied to its heritage. Ground floors house art shops, boutiques, and bohemian-style bars, offering a relaxed setting for a quick snack or drink. Diverse dining options, including kosher and ethnic cuisines, add to the charm, making it a favorite for history buffs, art enthusiasts, and casual visitors alike.

The House of Victor Hugo, a monographic museum at Vosges Square No. 6, is where the famous French author resided from 1832 to 1848. Hugo moved into a spacious 280-square-meter apartment on the building’s second floor together with his family and enjoyed here a vibrant social life. His residence became a gathering place for prominent literary figures like Alexandre Dumas, Honoré de Balzac, and Prosper Mérimée. Here, Hugo experienced both personal joy, like his daughter Léopoldine’s marriage, and sorrow, notably her tragic death in 1843. During these 16 years, the writer composed significant works such as Les Misérables, The Burgraves, and The Twilight Songs.

After Hugo’s departure in 1848, the apartment underwent structural changes, though it retained its original layout. In 1902, on Hugo’s centenary, a close friend of the writer and executor of his will donated items to establish the museum, which opened in 1903. The museum’s collection includes Hugo’s drawings, manuscripts, photographs, and various personal artifacts.

Recently renovated, the museum features new amenities like an educational workshop and a tea room overlooking a courtyard garden. Visitors can explore the Hugo family apartment, arranged in seven rooms that trace his life “before, during, and after exile.” Highlights include the red living room, which captures his early career with paintings and memorabilia, the Chinese-decorated drawing room, the Medieval-style dining room, and his study, with original furnishings from his later years. The final room recreates Hugo’s death chamber in 1885.

Upon the announcement of Hugo’s death, aged 83, over two million people took to the streets to bid farewell to the writer at his funeral procession stretching from the Arch of Triumph to his final resting place at The Pantheon. That procession is depicted in one of the paintings displayed at the museum.

The museum’s first floor holds a permanent exhibition of Hugo's drawings plus the iconography of his literary works. At times, there are also temporary exhibitions and displays a rotating selection of Hugo’s drawings. A library with over 11,000 works on Hugo is open to researchers by appointment.

The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., except Mondays and holidays, and is free to enter. For visitor's convenience, there is an audio guide in English which helps put into context all that is there to see.

Bourgeoisie Franks Street, one of the longer streets in Le Marais district, runs along the route of Philippe Auguste's old city walls and marks the boundary between the 3rd and 4th administrative districts of Paris. Known for its blend of historical and modern elements, this street characterizes the transition from the city's traditional architecture to a trendy shopping area of fashion. Dotted with many designer stores, often housed in beautiful old townhouses (some of which are set back in the courtyards), you can find numerous French clothing, jewelry, and perfume brands here.

American novelist and poet Jack Kerouac playfully dubbed it the "street of the outspoken middle class," highlighting its blend of cultural history and bourgeois charm.

Tracing its origins back to the 14th century, the street was initially a weaver’s lane called Pulley Street. Its evolution over the centuries is marked by significant changes, notably its transformation into a haven for the tax-exempt poor, known as "francs-bourgeois," through the establishment of almshouses in 1334. The street's name has changed multiple times, incorporating roads like New Saint-Catherine Street and Paradise-in-the-Marsh Street in 1868, expanding its reach and influence within the capital.

The street itself and the surrounding area boast a wealth of cafés and restaurants set against the backdrop of magnificent mansion facades (such as Soubise, Rohan-Strasbourg, and others). The architectural landscape of Bourgeoisie Franks features an eclectic mix of old-time houses and modern boutiques. Notable buildings such as Hôtel Carnavalet, at No. 16, currently a museum of Paris history, and Hôtel d'Angoulême Lamoignon, at No. 14, illustrate the street’s rich heritage. The presence of the Swiss Cultural Center and the House of Europe at Nos. 34-37 also emphasizes its role as a cultural hub.

Despite the 19th-century urban modifications that pushed buildings back from their original alignments, creating an irregular street line, Bourgeoisie Franks Street maintains its historical integrity. It is also one of the few Parisian streets that largely ignore France's strong tradition of Sunday closure and is a popular location for weekend brunches, walks, and people watching.

The Paris History Museum, outlining the city's evolution through the ages, is nestled in two historic mansions—the Hôtel Carnavalet and the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint Fargeau.

The former, acquired by the Municipal Council of Paris in 1866, opened its doors to the public in 1880. By the end of the 20th century, the burgeoning collection necessitated expansion, leading to the acquisition, in 1989, of the Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint Fargeau, the former home of 17th-century writer Madame de Sévigné, which effectively doubled the museum's exhibition space.

This historic site underwent a significant renovation in 2016, reopening five years later with enhanced galleries and an expanded array of exhibits. Its collections are strategically displayed across more than 100 themed rooms, which guide visitors through different periods, starting from prehistoric Lutetia to the reigns of Henry IV and Louis XIV through to the artistic revolutions of the Enlightenment and further ahead to the dynamic scenes of modern Paris.

The museum houses over 625,000 objects, including 2,600 paintings, 20,000 drawings, 300,000 engravings, and 150,000 photographs, that provide a visual narrative of Parisian life throughout various epochs. It also houses some 2,000 modern sculptures and 800 pieces of furniture, thousands of ceramics, numerous decorations, shop signs, and countless other items, including souvenirs of famous personalities and archaeological fragments. Among the highlights are Neolithic artifacts, Roman-era discoveries, and a detailed depiction of medieval to Renaissance Paris.

Of particular interest are the exhibits related to the French Revolution, featuring detailed scale models of guillotines and a replica of the Bastille prison made from one of its original stones. Also featured is a reconstruction of Louis XVI's prison cell and personal mementos from his life, such as medallions containing locks of his family's hair. Additionally, visitors can marvel at impressive interior recreations spanning from the Middle Ages to the rococo period, as well as Art Nouveau, with highlights including the original furnishings of Café de Paris and the exquisite jewelry shop Fouquet.

Paris's Rosebushes Street is steeped in history dating back to its construction along the Philippe Auguste ramparts around 1230. The street's name originates from the rose bushes that once adorned the neighboring gardens.

Spanning 303 meters, it serves as the central artery of Paris’s Jewish quarter, known colloquially as "the Pletzl" (or "little place" in Yiddish). Unique to this area, shops and cafés open on Sundays and holidays to accommodate the Jewish Sabbath on Saturday, drawing large crowds seeking its vibrant cultural offerings. Over the years, Rosebushes Street has been a sanctuary for the Jewish community, with significant numbers arriving between 1881 and 1914, fleeing persecution from Eastern Europe. This influx established a robust Ashkenazi presence, complemented by a lesser-known Sephardic community.

Historically, the street also bore signs of Christian worship, including a statue of the Virgin Mary that stood until the French Revolution. Architecturally, the street has managed to preserve its historical integrity, avoiding major changes during Baron Haussmann’s reconfiguration of Paris in the 19th century. Today, it proudly displays remnants of medieval fortifications, particularly in the park known as the Rose Garden – Joseph-Migneret.

Rosebushes Street today juxtaposes its rich historical past with modern influences. Renovations in 2007 enhanced the street's ambiance with new paving, lighting, and added greenery, while the creation of the Rose Garden – Joseph-Migneret park in 2014 introduced a public space incorporating several historic private gardens. Despite recent changes that have seen traditional Jewish shops replaced by fashionable boutiques, the street remains a culinary hotspot, famed for introducing falafel to France and hosting a competitive scene of restaurants specializing in this dish.